Distributor Question

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hambone
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Location: Portland, Ore.
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Distributor Question

Post by hambone » Sun Dec 21, 2008 9:50 am

Halsey VW Parts down the road has what they call an "009 with a vacuum can". Is this the same as a SVDA or is this some knock off?
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Sluggo
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Post by Sluggo » Sun Dec 21, 2008 11:40 am

It's a cheap SVDA. They don't even make 009s anymore so it's probably Chinese crap like what came on my Beetle. Get a good SVDA form Aircooled.net like I did for my Bus or look for the proper used dizzy online like I did for my Beetle. Both engines appreciated it very much.
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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hambone
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Post by hambone » Sun Dec 21, 2008 12:28 pm

Thanks Sluggo. From Aircooled.net you can get it with an electronic ignition, but it's Computronix, never heard of it. The Pertronix won't fit.
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat

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Sluggo
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Post by Sluggo » Mon Dec 22, 2008 10:45 am

hambone wrote:From Aircooled.net you can get it with an electronic ignition, but it's Computronix, never heard of it. The Pertronix won't fit.
I have an aircooled.net SVDA on my Bus. It has had both a Pertronix and Compufire in it and both worked equally well. The compufire just seems more well made and sturdy IMHO.
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

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RSorak 71Westy
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Post by RSorak 71Westy » Tue Dec 23, 2008 8:38 am

It has had both a Pertronix and Compufire in it and both worked equally well. The compufire just seems more well made and sturdy IMHO.

I had both too and have the opposite opinion, I started w/ a compufire and it died. I have 3 pertronix and all have worked flawlessly.
Take care,
Rick
Stock 1600 w/dual Solex 34's and header. mildly ported heads and EMPI elephant's feet. SVDA W/pertronix. 73 Thing has been sold. BTW I am a pro wrench have been fixing cars for living for over 30 yrs.

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hambone
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Post by hambone » Tue Dec 23, 2008 12:03 pm

Maybe they changed something? The website says Pertronix or Compufire won't work, must use Computronix.

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewpr ... 0859806800
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat

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dtrumbo
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Post by dtrumbo » Tue Dec 23, 2008 2:10 pm

I have these archaic things called points and miraculously my bus starts and runs just fine.
- Dick

1970 Transporter. 2015cc, dual Weber IDF 40's
1978 Riviera Camper. Bone stock GE 2.0L F.I.
1979 Super Beetle convertible.

... as it turns out, it was the coil!

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chitwnvw
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Post by chitwnvw » Tue Dec 23, 2008 2:20 pm

dtrumbo wrote:I have these archaic things called points and miraculously my bus starts and runs just fine.
That's the way us stock enthusiasts roll.

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hambone
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Post by hambone » Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:01 pm

Is this the same as the ACN one? Prob not, it's a lot cheaper:
http://www.hot-spark.com/Hot-Spark-SVDA034-2BOS4V1.htm

China, I'm guessin'.
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat

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chitwnvw
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Post by chitwnvw » Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:14 pm

I got this.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1348

Used to be 99 bucks :<

That one you linked to sounds like too good to be true.

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hambone
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Post by hambone » Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:18 pm

Thanks Chi, that's the one I'll prob get. Bosch no less!
Can those things be timed statically on a type1? In all my VW years I've never used a strobe for timing, never had a real reason to...
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
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hambone
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Post by hambone » Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:39 am

So, back to timing. Can we discuss why Muir thinks static timing is OK but others say it's only OK for vacuum advance distributors only?

I've timed many different distributors static only, and the engines seemed to be happy. You can tell when your engine isn't running right - it's hot, stumbles, poor gas milage etc. But maybe I'm ignorant?
I understand the basics, as far as advance curve and how it changes from idle vs higher rpms. But I've never had to use a timing light.

I'm contemplating the SVDA but I kinda like static timing. Seems like hocus-pocus.
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
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JLT
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Post by JLT » Thu Jan 01, 2009 1:50 pm

hambone wrote:So, back to timing. Can we discuss why Muir thinks static timing is OK but others say it's only OK for vacuum advance distributors only?
I'm certainly no expert, but I think that Muir's affection for static timing is that it's cheap and easy to do, requiring no fancy-schmancy equipment (i.e., strobe lights). As you recall, John also used to think that the mechanical-advance distributor was the only one fit to put on an upright engine, and it can be argued that since this eliminates the variables of vacuum advances and retards, the static method works well for them (springs don't develop hose or diaphragm leaks). But in the later editions of the book edited by Tosh Gregg, both methods are covered. From what I've gleaned, the current theory is that the really important measurement is where the timing is at full advance, and you really need a strobe for that.

IIRC, even John recommended that you take the car to VW and have them adjust the timing with all their fancy stuff and then, when you get home, get out your timing light, crank the engine by hand and make a mark on the pulley where the light went on. This is the mark you would use for subsequent static adjustments.
-- JLT
Sacramento CA

Present bus: '71 Dormobile Westie "George"
(sometimes towing a '65 Allstate single-wheel trailer)
Former buses: '61 17-window Deluxe "Pink Bus"
'70 Frankenwestie "Blunder Bus"
'71 Frankenwestie "Thunder Bus"

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hambone
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Post by hambone » Thu Jan 01, 2009 6:52 pm

That makes sense, thanks. "good enough" and really dialed in are very different.
Once I timed a Beetle by feel. Got it close, drove around, moved it a bit til' I found the sweet spot of cool engine and acceleration. It's really trusting your instincts, but not sure it's the best.
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat

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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Thu Jan 01, 2009 8:18 pm

Static is the *only* way to time a vacuum-only distributor. Since VW went through the late 60's with vacuum only distributors on the buses and bugs, it creeped into the VW lexicon right when John Muir was writing his book.

The centrifugal/vacuum combination distributors, we must pivot all adjustments around centrifugal total advance no hoses. That is the rule. That is where it must be dead-nuts accurate because that is when the engine is under full load at-speed. Every DVDA SVDA 009 whatever, is acting just like an 009 when the throttle is floored. There is no vacuum advance under full load for any combination distributor. So adjust to your 28*@3,000, or 21-25*@3,400 or whatever THEN see where your idle timing may lay. There is some wiggle room with the Type 4 engines. . . if you find that the idle timing (no hoses) is 4*BTDC and it calls for 7.5*BTDC, and your centrifugal is topping out at 25*, go ahead and take another 3* advance. Use common sense.

With the vacuum retard people, it has to be working before you even think about setting your idle timing. If your retard doesn't retard, and you set the timing to spec at 5 or 10* AFTER TDC, the whole timing map will be retarded, retard.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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