Jivermo-Engine install question...

[Jivermo]

Well, I'm ready to stick the Adrian Special Número Dos back into my bus, and the rain starts, of course. But a question arises now. Will I have to remove any of the tin at the rear to get the engine mated up with the transmission, which is installed already. When I pulled the leaking engine, I had already removed the tins, fan housing and alternator so I could find the oil leak. That made removal a breeze. I Don't know if I have the clearance to jockey the clutch and all onto the tranny shaft. What say you all?

http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s62 ... npoxms.jpg

[Jivermo]

Also, is it advisable to put the 2 heater control boxes on at this point, or wait until the engine is in? I'd sure love to get this thing in, and started, today...while the weather holds.

[Jivermo]

Just took some measurements, and it appears I need to pull the rear tins,the fan guard, maybe the distributor to clear the body. Maybe jockey it in with the oil filler tube still attached? Hell,I guess I'm gonna be answering my own questions on this forum entry. Yes, Jivermo, that's what you do. Watch that the engine is level when you go to mate it up with the tranny shaft. O.K.! Thanks, Jivermo!

The Colin Dictum: Let them make their own mistakes; it's the only way they'll learn and retain the knowledge.

[Amskeptic]

Just took some measurements, and it appears I need to pull the rear tins,the fan guard, maybe the distributor to clear the body. Maybe jockey it in with the oil filler tube still attached? Hell,I guess I'm gonna be answering my own questions on this forum entry. Yes, Jivermo, that's what you do. Watch that the engine is level when you go to mate it up with the tranny shaft. O.K.! Thanks, Jivermo!

The Colin Dictum: Let them make their own mistakes; it's the only way they'll learn and retain the knowledge.

No no no, I am late to the answer party, sorry. You meant "coil" not "distributor", yes?

Best installation technique is to drop the bell housing down about 4-6". Then you can mate the engine at a slight angle that allows the input shaft to engage with the transaxle below any interference with the body.
Support transaxle with an already extended bottle jack, then remove the 15mm bell housing bolts. Drop the jack 4-6". Now bring engine to transaxle. Once mated and bolted, just jack the whole thing straight up to installed height with the floor jack, the bottle jack's job is done. A little fiddling to get the 15mm bolts back in, not a big deal, then slap in the engine carrier bolts.

See Below. I really was able to install the engine with the foam seal and tins in place on the engine. Please ignore all the leaky jack nonsense, you really need tools that are up for the job.

viewtopic.php?f=58&t=9053#p162950

viewtopic.php?f=67&t=11627#p202628

[Jivermo]

Yay!

[lilpig88]

I just wrote a response
hit submit
lo and behold Colin beat me to it!

His advice is spot on

Good luck!

Let us know how it all goes.

[Amskeptic]

I just wrote a response
hit submit
lo and behold Colin beat me to it!

His advice is spot on

Good luck!

Let us know how it all goes.

Thank you, lilpig, it is good to know that there's back-up around here.
How's the piglet?
ColinInSeattle

[Jivermo]

The rain got me this weekend. It's ready to go in, but my work area is soaked. Next weekend now. Man.

[Jivermo]

The game was called due to rain, but I'm ready to put the engine in. A pressing question, though: I was going to lower the bell housing, as Colin indicated above, but stopped short-the shift coupler and the front support of the trans-do they need to be taken apart to lower the required 4"-6"? I don't want to risk any damage by placing undue stress there when I lower the bell housing. I await an answer to this dilemma, wrench in hand.

[Amskeptic]

The game was called due to rain, but I'm ready to put the engine in. A pressing question, though: I was going to lower the bell housing, as Colin indicated above, but stopped short-the shift coupler and the front support of the trans-do they need to be taken apart to lower the required 4"-6"? I don't want to risk any damage by placing undue stress there when I lower the bell housing. I await an answer to this dilemma, wrench in hand.

No no no no, I would have mentioned that. Place tranny in 1st gear to shorten the sticking out part. Just let the whole thing arc down a lousy 6" at the bell housing, and the shift coupler moves up a half an inch. Take eight if you need it. Keep the front mount secure.
Colin

[Jivermo]

Thanks!

[Jivermo]

Out...



Going up...

And bolting in! And before the rain...


Dagnabbit...this here engine better break in trouble free; I've had enough of the ol' in and out for awhile...at least the VW style...

[Jivermo]

Oh, yes, Colin...that is a new, high quality three ton jack you see there...the Orange, slow leaker, is retired to less strenuous duties. Now, the next thing is to have the rough concrete refinished to a smooth coat, so the damn thing will roll decently. Wyatt and I had a real struggle lining the input shaft up. But...we got it.

[asiab3]

I'm sure I'm not the only one crossing my fingers for you. Good luck!

And may the red oil filler cap grant you a quick prime and healthy lubrication.
Robbie