Itinerant Air-Cooled

energyturtle wrote:There's OG pumps all over the samba. Why compromise? Did he use your old engine as a core? It had the OG pump. I don't understand what were speculating about. Just get the OG pump. It takes 30 min to swap them out. Pack full of vasoline to aid in oil pressure on first start. Good luck.

We can't pull the trigger on "compromise" too quickly. There are "opinions" out here in the wild internet.

Some people poo poo the original pumps as inadequate. They do the same for any number of original items on an air-cooled Volkswagen. I often see a relationship between "inadequate original parts" and what they happen to be selling.

Re: Adrian, airkooledchris has the answer . . . ask him for his rationale.

I have never not used an original pump. I have never had an oil starvation issue, no red light light flicker at a hot idle. That's my experience of original pumps some with a lot of friggen miles on them. What more can I conclude than that they are adequate?
Colin

I am using a Raby modified 28mmm aluminum oil pump (Schadek) in my Westy. Why? the oem one was really worn out with lots of damage inside the aluminum body as the PO didn't change the oil much at all. Of course there was other dirty oil damage too and the mains were completely wiped and had chunks missing. No way would I run a suspect part with a expensive rebuild.
I think a careful inspection of the oem pump is necessary to make sure it's within spec as they do wear out. Maybe that was the case here for this engine as it's Adrian's butt on the line so he put in a new pump. If it's the steel one, it's not my first choice but there must be a reason.

Bleyseng wrote: If it's the steel one, it's not my first choice but there must be a reason.

Yes, and we are grown-ups here so we can ask the hard questions without getting combative either on the provider or the recipient, namely, is this reason one of availability or is it a good serious science/physics/experience reason?
Colin

I have been trying to contact Adrian to consult with him about this. This can be trying, at times.

Jivermo wrote:I have been trying to contact Adrian to consult with him about this. This can be trying, at times.

Well, it is the holidays currently. Maybe he accidentally knocked himself out against the bottom of the coffee table when he tried to rouse himself from his eggnog/Southern Comfort stupor to crawl to the computer/phone?
Colin
(joke, it was a joke)

Amskeptic wrote:

Jivermo wrote:I have been trying to contact Adrian to consult with him about this. This can be trying, at times.

Well, it is the holidays currently. Maybe he accidentally knocked himself out against the bottom of the coffee table when he tried to rouse himself from his eggnog/Southern Comfort stupor to crawl to the computer/phone?
Colin
(joke, it was a joke)

He's alive and kicking! Though when I visited on Monday I dully forgot to ask him about T4 oil pumps. Too many of my own questions and I hit my "annoying kid" limit for the week. I'll try to ask when I pick my heads up in February.

Really nice guy... Doesn't seem like the eggnog or Southern Comfort type... Though I imagine he would MUCH rather be installing valve guides than answering phone calls. Last time I was there he had a nice young lady helping out in the office. Maybe SHE'S the eggnog culprit.

Robbie

Thanks! I'll give him another shout.

Jivermo how do you like the engine? I am in the process (research) towards deciding what I should do for my 82 westy. I will be rebuilding, replacing, upgrading...... the current engine within the next year or so and from what I have read Adrian is the guy to go with. So the who part is pretty much decided.

What are the specs of your build? Any upgrades other than the valve grind? Did you stay with factory specs?

Im looking for some more power and am trying to decide just how I what to achieve this. Here is one of Adrians latest creations.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... ht=rebuild

I have talked to Kyle about this and I love the HP increase but I feel this is a bit more than I want to dog into. Im looking for something in between.

SGKent found some fellow to blueprint OG vw.T4 pumps. Prolly three years back..mellings were leaky then,.and,shadecks might.be.good?
Why does my vdo dual oil pressure issue a low warning via idiot light..?
Word was they trigger a # or two higher than stock single sender...
Anyway, slight correction to off topic yaw. Whatever the A.H.F.M. pump.is, aint nothin like the real thing BA/BY!

Boxcar wrote: Why does my vdo dual oil pressure issue a low warning via idiot light..?
Word was they trigger a # or two higher than stock single sender...

The vdo triggers around 8-10#
The stock sender triggers around 2-6#.

If you have a hose with tree sprouting out of the oil sender hole, use the stock sender for the idiot light, and run the other sensor to the pressure gauge.
Colin
(I have an idiot light with an additional auditory warning that only occurs if the engine is running)

airkooledchris wrote:It sounds like a question that should be presented to Adrian to address first.

I stopped by his shop today and managed to catch him before closing. Along with a severely cheaper quote for headwork than I was anticipating, , I asked him about the pumps for a T4 engine in a bus.

He said he defaults to personally modifying the T1 30mm Schadek pump. When customers request the old/original pumps be used, he will, but he also said many customers were scared of a used oil pump on an otherwise new engine. Except he used the word "heart" instead of oil pump.

So to me it sounds like you get the T1 pump to "reset" the service life unless you ask for something else.

Robbie

asiab3 wrote:

airkooledchris wrote:It sounds like a question that should be presented to Adrian to address first.

I stopped by his shop today and managed to catch him before closing. Along with a severely cheaper quote for headwork than I was anticipating, , I asked him about the pumps for a T4 engine in a bus.

He said he defaults to personally modifying the T1 30mm Schadek pump. When customers request the old/original pumps be used, he will, but he also said many customers were scared of a used oil pump on an otherwise new engine. Except he used the word "heart" instead of oil pump.

So to me it sounds like you get the T1 pump to "reset" the service life unless you ask for something else.

Robbie

That is a solid conventional answer missing the delightful nuances of Reality.
Resetting the service life of a Type 4 pump is no different than resetting the life of a Type 1 pump. There are two dimensions that count for an efficient oil pump. One is the lash between the teeth, the other is the clearance between the edges of the gears and the walls of the pump. If you meet the specifications, yer good. Period. You can make the pump meet the specifications. With a Type 1 pump, a mirror and a piece of sandpaper will smooth any scoring in the walls or the gear edges, Type 4 is more involved but easy enough. I like the original pumps still.

Heart, eh? OK, no yak heart transplants into our little princesses.
Colin

Amskeptic wrote:

Boxcar wrote: Why does my vdo dual oil pressure issue a low warning via idiot light..?
Word was they trigger a # or two higher than stock single sender...

The vdo triggers around 8-10#
The stock sender triggers around 2-6#.

If you have a hose with tree sprouting out of the oil sender hole, use the stock sender for the idiot light, and run the other sensor to the pressure gauge.
Colin
(I have an idiot light with an additional auditory warning that only occurs if the engine is running)

Instead of using the stock sender for the idiot light, why not adjust the VDO sender to trigger the idiot light at 2 - 6 psi? This is pyrOman's photo from TS of the dual pole vdo sender with the cover off. You are looking at the guts of the light switch mechanism and it seems to me like it can be adjusted.



The engine that I bought from aeromech is delivering today, yay! I'm treating it to an oil pressure and temp gauge (I already have the CHT gauge). It's been pointed out that an unadjusted VDO sender is set to trigger the oil light at a higher value than stock pressure thus causing the oil light to flicker at idle after a hot highway run. The conventional solution is to do what Colin suggested and "t" the stock sender into service for the idiot light. The problem is that it's not as clean as using the dual pole vdo sender and maybe the extra plumbing is a source for oil leaks. I'll report back with my success or failure.

The Guru at work, dressing the Headflow Masters long block. We got it installed, and did the initial 20 minute break in run. There will be more discussion on this subject later, of that I am fairly certain.

That's an awesome pic! Very focused, to say the least. I'm glad you are getting closer to DRIVING again. Cheers, and the best of luck to ya Jivermo.

Scottie