Proper Engine Head Temperature 2.0 FI w/ Solid Lifters

[WaterDawg]

What is the proper Engine Head Temperature on a 2.0 FI at:

Highway Speed:
Up Long Steep Hills:
Idle:

Mine seems to run around
400-425 at 60-65 mph highway (4th Gear unless she drops under 2500 rpm)
325-350 around town (3rd gear)

Here's the specs:

3600 RPM
65 MPH
410*
50* outside air temp

3600 RPM
60 MPH
425*
38* outside air temp

4000 RPM
50 MPH (Hill Climb 3rd Gear)
410*
35* outside air temp


From what I recall, I seemed to only get to 400 on steep hills before my valve adjustment and now it seems to be between 400 and 425 quite often.

Valves were set (per Adrian at Head Flow Masters)
.006 Intake .008 exhaust
He used this setting since I'm crossing numerous high altitude steep mountain ranges. He told me to reset it to .006 In/Out once I am back east.

[Jivermo]

Seems hot to me. On my recent 4000 mile trip, the hottest I ran was on a slight uphill gradient in South Carolina when it was 95 degrees ambient. At 65 MPH, I hit 412 on my Dakota Digital. At cooler outside temps, I rarely got into the 400's. Most of the trip, the engine ran at between 370-390. 2L fuel injected '78.

[Bleyseng]

Yep, seems too hot to me as you "should" be running in the 360-410F range. I would check the timing as I have read you set it too 7.5 BTDC but where is it at 3500 rpms with the vac adv hoses off and plugged? Also read Colin's AFM adjustment article on this site under the FI section as you can check the setting this way without a O2 meter. Or adjust the AFM cog wheel 3 clicks richer AFTER marking its present setting with a Sharpie marker so you can reset it if this doesn't work.
Timing and AFM adjustment are the two critical pieces that affect the CHT's. Too lean a AFM setting and you get high CHT's. Too advanced timing and you get high CHT's. Have you noticed any "Pinging" when you drive? Listen carefully for it as it sounds like marbles in the engine as it runs.
Also a quick look into the cooling fan wouldn't hurt as if you don't have the plastic screen crap can and will be sucked into the fan.

[WaterDawg]

Yep, seems too hot to me as you "should" be running in the 360-410F range. I would check the timing as I have read you set it too 7.5 BTDC but where is it at 3500 rpms with the vac adv hoses off and plugged? Also read Colin's AFM adjustment article on this site under the FI section as you can check the setting this way without a O2 meter. Or adjust the AFM cog wheel 3 clicks richer AFTER marking its present setting with a Sharpie marker so you can reset it if this doesn't work.
Timing and AFM adjustment are the two critical pieces that affect the CHT's. Too lean a AFM setting and you get high CHT's. Too advanced timing and you get high CHT's. Have you noticed any "Pinging" when you drive? Listen carefully for it as it sounds like marbles in the engine as it runs.
Also a quick look into the cooling fan wouldn't hurt as if you don't have the plastic screen crap can and will be sucked into the fan.

Cooling fan looks clear. I was in very high elevations and now under 3000'. Colin suggested I adjust the AFM...doing that this morning.

[WaterDawg]

I moved the Cog Wheel 3 clicks Counter clockwise just now. At idle she's about 275* (VDO Guage)
Will check and report or readjust at next fuel stop.

[Jivermo]

Try the quick rich/lean rapid brake pump test for your setting answer.

[WaterDawg]

Try the quick rich/lean rapid brake pump test for your setting answer.

I pulled the small vacuum line and she slightly improved.
I ran down the highway and saw now improvement in temps despite it being 38* and we are below 3000' now

I pulled over and gave 3 more clicks on the cog so I'm 6 clicks counter clockwise.

Still no change 400-410 at 60mph 3200rpm

Just filled up with gas

Adjusted the Idle Fuel mixture screw.

Could only turn it less than a 1/4 turn clockwise before she stopped. (I have original position marked)
I turned it 1/2 turn counter clockwise. Will report results at next stop.
(PS. pulling the small hose still slightly improves idle)

[airkooledchris]

Try the quick rich/lean rapid brake pump test for your setting answer.

What does it mean when the idle kicks down / or revs up when you pump the brakes?

I *think* that a jump in RPM means your running rich, and bogging down means you're running lean - yes?

[whc03grady]

What does it mean when the idle kicks down / or revs up when you pump the brakes?

I *think* that a jump in RPM means your running rich, and bogging down means you're running lean - yes?

Here is a quicky check anytime.
At a stop, lightly pump the brake pedal quicklyquickly.
If idle drops dramatically - too lean
If idle goes up ridiculously - too rich
If idle drops mildly and recovers when you stop pumping the brake pedal lightly and quicklyquickly - just right

[WaterDawg]

realized turning the Fuel idle screw the wrong way I was leaning it I moved it back and bottom that out now I'm running at 360ish

anything wrong with having that screw all a clockwise?

[WaterDawg]

so after turning the screw all the way clockwise, she ran just above 350...thought all was good, but then I turned East again and she climbed up to 400-450!

Turns out that I was being hit with a 30-40 mph cross wind coming out of the south and blowing north. There was so much wind force, she was working extra hard, but as soon as I would turn north (I'm in the Dakotas so the roads go N/S or E/W LOL) she'd drop down to about 360*

Going to check the timing tomorrow morning before I start.
I have a Timing Light with a Tach on it now too.

[Amskeptic]

so after turning the screw all the way clockwise, she ran just above 350...thought all was good, but then I turned East again and she climbed up to 400-450!

Turns out that I was being hit with a 30-40 mph cross wind coming out of the south and blowing north. There was so much wind force, she was working extra hard, but as soon as I would turn north (I'm in the Dakotas so the roads go N/S or E/W LOL) she'd drop down to about 360*

Going to check the timing tomorrow morning before I start.
I have a Timing Light with a Tach on it now too.

Are you Dakota Digital or the hated spawn of Satan VDO?

Adjust the timing at 3,200-3,400 rpm to 28* BTDC. For FUN . . . write down your highway numbers at 65 mph with all variables noted, then retard the timing to 25*BTDC, and drive as similarly as possible and let us know.

You have very nice head temps until you are on the road under load, so we want to richen your high rpm/load side of the map without turning the idle into Bejing.

If you are bottomed out in the mixture screw, do the following:

Warm up engine. Shut if off.
Set the AFM mixture screw to 4 turns out from the bottom.
Reset the black cog 6 turns clockwise.
(your engine may barely run now)
Look at the little iddybiddy teeth on the wiper thing that dances all over the place.
Make a paint match-mark between the chromy metal plate upon which it sits and one of the teeth.
Loosen the screw that holds the wiper.
Move wiper 1/2 tooth towards rich (this is a powerful adjustment), lightly set the screw so it won't move here.

Start engine. Let it warm up. Check your mixture at idle and at 2,700 rpm, throttle cable must be held in position by non-human means. If engine rpm increases just a bit when you move the wiper just a tiny bit, you're good. If it increases very noticeably (150-200 rpm) turn the mixture screw down a full turn (now at 3 turns from bottom). Recheck mixture. A slight uptick when you move it CCW is good.

Don't get goofy here, don't get ham-handed. On the road, you have all the time in the world to slowly work the adjustments into the sweet spot.

Test drive and report back.
Colin

[WaterDawg]

Thanks Colin,

A bit scary, but will do it :D
But I think, I will wait till I am at the new location tomorrow so i can be sure to be out of the snow line if we end up having an issue.
There I have a full garage and can hide from the weather coming in behind me.

Do you think its OK, to drive it as long as she's under 450 degrees?

The gauge is the VDO, but I think I will swap to a digital once I am home.

[Bleyseng]

You should calibrate it by putting the ring into a pot of boiling water and see what it reads. Say it reads 230F so then you know its off by 8F. Then there is the factor that its setup to read at 70F ambient temp so if it's 40F out then you have to account for that. Damn I can't remember the exact way to adjust for it but maybe Colin will as I switched to a DD a few years ago to avoid this hassle. I had one VDO read 50 degrees too low! so it pays to calibrate the gauge so you know its variance.
If you are running 450F CHT's that's really hot but you have Adrian heads so that helps but still try to keep running as cool as possible.

[WaterDawg]

Check your mixture at idle and at 2,700 rpm, throttle cable must be held in position by non-human means.
Colin

any suggestion for / on how to do this part?