Dropping autotrans engine?

[Psucamper]

I have two questions. First some background, I am preparing to drop my 2L 1979 camper automatic trans engine to access the fuel tank. It's clogged. I have disconnected all pertinent wires and hoses and the three auto drive plate to converter bolts.
Now the questions:
(a) Bentley says to support the transmission with the special (of course ) VW fixture. If actually needed I'll use a piece of chain. Do I really need that support or something somewhere else? Do not want to stress the trans assembly sans engine helping support.
(b) When I pull the engine back, the converter "donut" should remain on the transmission. When re-installing how can I guarantee that the drive plate bolt hole will match the "donut" hole or is it obvious? Is it possible to rotate only the "donut" to make the holes coincident while the engine is bolted up to the trans?
Helpful suggestions are more than appreciated. Bob L.

[zabo]

Im sure others will reply more in depth but to save hassle I would pull the engine and trans as one unit.

[Randy in Maine]

Agreed. Remove engine and transmission as a unit.

[Psucamper]

Thanks for the reply, but dropping the trans+engine in this case is (almost) not feasible. Current garage setup not conducive. Will muddle through just with the engine and see where it leads me . Further instructions would be helpful. Bob L.

[ruckman101]

I use a cargo tie-down strap to support the transmission wrapping around the frame members. A bottle jack is another option, but not ideal. I use a bottle jack to get a better angle on getting the engine back in.

And welcome to the IAC forum.


neal

[Amskeptic]

Thanks for the reply, but dropping the trans+engine in this case is (almost) not feasible. Current garage setup not conducive. Will muddle through just with the engine and see where it leads me . Further instructions would be helpful. Bob L.

Dropping the engine and transmission as a unit is the best solution, as you do not need to fully remove anyway. Put the torque converter bolts back in and be happy that you do not have to annoy the seals . . .

You need only remove the s-boot and decel hoses, plus the wiring to the voltage regulator and double relay/series resistors, (2) 15mm bell housing carrier bolts and the (4) engine hanger bolts, drop the engine maybe six inches, and that fuel tank is free to come out.
Colin

[Psucamper]

Colin, Sent you PM on 9/28 or 9/29 but it never showed up in my sent mail box! Anyway,here's the gist. I have a garage pit with a homemade hydraulic lift for easy removal of T-1 engines. Good stout unit but worried it won't handle a T-4 for stability. HF sells a 1500lb ATV lift that lowers to 4.5" and has a 17" travel. Would this do the job? Need auxiliary jacks or what?

This interruption (clogged tank) is not what I wanted us to do on your 10/12 visit! I can get the ATV lift quickly if needed. If one goes this way, do the CV joints (at the trans) need uncoupling or is there enough bend that it's not necessary.
P.S. Herrnkind should have his P/L set UPS delivered today. Bob L.

[Amskeptic]

Colin, Sent you PM on 9/28 or 9/29 but it never showed up in my sent mail box! Anyway,here's the gist. I have a garage pit with a homemade hydraulic lift for easy removal of T-1 engines. Good stout unit but worried it won't handle a T-4 for stability. HF sells a 1500lb ATV lift that lowers to 4.5" and has a 17" travel. Would this do the job? Need auxiliary jacks or what?

This interruption (clogged tank) is not what I wanted us to do on your 10/12 visit! I can get the ATV lift quickly if needed. If one goes this way, do the CV joints (at the trans) need uncoupling or is there enough bend that it's not necessary.
P.S. Herrnkind should have his P/L set UPS delivered today. Bob L.

Being poor and scrappy, I cannot assess what good a pit would do you. There is no stability issue when you set the jack/plywood to the center of gravity of the engine/trans (front pad of the crankcase). You leave the nose cone mount bolted up. You leave the CVs alone. You leave the clutch hooked up. That is stable enough to drop engine down to the bottom of the floor jack's travel. If you need to drop the engine a tad further to clear, merely raise the vehicle a bit. Weight is no more than 200 lbs. I used a hemorrhaging WalMart-issue floorjack. At no time did I have to exert myself unduly.