Pertronix SVDA install?

[72Hardtop]

I've ordered a Pertronix SVDA and going to swap it with the German 009 I've run for 25+ years. The following is a photo (German 009) of the engine with the plug wire pointing to the breather tower being #2 and #1 is just to the left out of view (pointing to the rear of bus). #4 is facing the cooling tin on drivers side (closest to #4 cylinder) and # 3 is facing toward the front of the bus.

As for the Pertronix SVDA install I'm going to start with the engine at TDC #1 and remove the 009. After which I'll remove the clamp for placement on the SVDA. When installing the SVDA do I orient it just as I would the 009? Then drop it in?

Based on my current distributor (009) wire orientation (from photo) can one confirm whether the drive is in correctly? My understanding is that a 009 is off by 90 degrees. But by which way with my current set up?

[Amskeptic]

I've ordered a Pertronix SVDA and going to swap it with the German 009 I've run for 25+ years.

Put the engine at TDC #1 with your current 009.
Pull the distributor.
Look down the hole.
The distributor drive gear is good to go if the slot is to the left of the centerline at a 12* angle (slot sort of facing almost towards cylinder # 3.

When the SVDA is installed, the rotor should face the notch in the distributor body, and that should be roughly facing the engine hatch latch plate with the advance unit pretty much lined up with the breather bale. Welcome to the Optimal Distributor Epoch.
Colin

[72Hardtop]

Have a photo of the drive gear oriented correctly? I believe the last time I had the distributor out it (drive gear) was oriented as you described. So the vac can will be facing you after install?

[72Hardtop]

Looking at the photo closely it appears the wires are out of order. Firing order is 1-4-3-2 (reverse 1-2-3-4) looks as if 1 & 2 are crossed??? Is it my eyes...Photo is not of my set up but off of Ratwells site (reference).

[72Hardtop]

Forget the drive gear photo, found one. Colin can you confirm whether or not a 009 is 90 degrees off even if the drive gear is installed correctly? And if so which way is it off CW or CCW? Just curious.

[Amskeptic]

Forget the drive gear photo, found one. Colin can you confirm whether or not a 009 is 90 degrees off even if the drive gear is installed correctly? And if so which way is it off CW or CCW? Just curious.

The above photograph looks fine as far as distributor orientation, the can should face the breather bale and #1 distributor cap terminal is correct. I can't make out the wires to 1 and 2, but you know how they are supposed to go.

It does not matter in the slightest "which way" the 009 is off. The 90* off occurs at the bottom of the distributor where the roll pin hole is drilled. Who knows which way the drive dog is then assembled to the distributor?

You can easily check your SVDA by holding it above the hole in the engine, with the lugs oriented exactly above the slot down in the hole. The rotor should be pointing to the notch in the distributor body.
Colin

[72Hardtop]

Thanks Colin,

Yeah the above photo can be misleading for one to say the least...It shows the firing order as 1-2-4-3 CW instead of 1-4-3-2 CW.

Anyone have any experience with the Pertronix SVDA? Once I receive it I'm going to open it up and give it a good look over and clean/lube it up. I have some excellent synthetic grease (red) to use. As for the dizzy itself I heard that it's curve is based on the 034...this true? How far should I open the distributor up?

As for the SVDA's initial timing so I can get the bus started. What's the best method for ensuring I'm close enough for it to start? It will have a points replacement module.

[Amskeptic]

I have some excellent synthetic grease (red) to use.

On what?
Pertronix-equipped distributors need only the engine's supply .

Take the old distributor out at #1 firing point. Stick in the Pertronix distributor at its #1 point, as mentioned above. You might get a signal from the pick-up unit with a high-impedence ohmmeter, just set to 0* TDC, rotate the distributor until the ohmmeter kicks from 0 to infinity, it'll start. Then strobe time it.
Colin

[ruckman101]

I tried one once and shortly after installing it my coil went out on a road trip. For some reason I have always blamed the Pertronix unit for that, with no evidence or proof, right or wrong. Not long after that I manage to short it out wiring it backwards. Maybe it was subliminal, I don't know, but I went back to points. I seem to recall some quality control issues with them, also.

However, there are a large group of folks that swear by them, so I hope you are part of that crowd.


neal

[72Hardtop]

I have some excellent synthetic grease (red) to use.

On what?
Pertronix-equipped distributors need only the engine's supply .

Take the old distributor out at #1 firing point. Stick in the Pertronix distributor at its #1 point, as mentioned above. You might get a signal from the pick-up unit with a high-impedence ohmmeter, just set to 0* TDC, rotate the distributor until the ohmmeter kicks from 0 to infinity, it'll start. Then strobe time it.
Colin

Well...I imagine the the advance mechanism would need some lubrication. I have a voltmeter w/Ohm reading. How do I go about hooking it up to the Pertronix to get the initial timing? as for the distributor John (Aircooled) stated I should go thru it and even possibly clean it/lube the advance mechanism.

[Bleyseng]

I have some excellent synthetic grease (red) to use.

On what?
Pertronix-equipped distributors need only the engine's supply .

Take the old distributor out at #1 firing point. Stick in the Pertronix distributor at its #1 point, as mentioned above. You might get a signal from the pick-up unit with a high-impedence ohmmeter, just set to 0* TDC, rotate the distributor until the ohmmeter kicks from 0 to infinity, it'll start. Then strobe time it.
Colin

Well...I imagine the the advance mechanism would need some lubrication. I have a voltmeter w/Ohm reading. How do I go about hooking it up to the Pertronix to get the initial timing? as for the distributor John (Aircooled) stated I should go thru it and even possibly clean it/lube the advance mechanism.

If its sitting there on the workbench then yes, take it apart and clean and lube it. Thirty year old grease hardens and makes for goofy advance. I have had the same Pertronix in my Westy now since 2007 and no problems but please wire the radio so it turns on without the key on. That's usually how the Pertronix fry as someone turns on the key for the radio to play and when they go to start it, its dead. I do carry a set of points and condenser in the stash just in case.

[72Hardtop]

I have some excellent synthetic grease (red) to use.

On what?
Pertronix-equipped distributors need only the engine's supply .

Take the old distributor out at #1 firing point. Stick in the Pertronix distributor at its #1 point, as mentioned above. You might get a signal from the pick-up unit with a high-impedence ohmmeter, just set to 0* TDC, rotate the distributor until the ohmmeter kicks from 0 to infinity, it'll start. Then strobe time it.
Colin

Well...I imagine the the advance mechanism would need some lubrication. I have a voltmeter w/Ohm reading. How do I go about hooking it up to the Pertronix to get the initial timing? as for the distributor John (Aircooled) stated I should go thru it and even possibly clean it/lube the advance mechanism.

If its sitting there on the workbench then yes, take it apart and clean and lube it. Thirty year old grease hardens and makes for goofy advance. I have had the same Pertronix in my Westy now since 2007 and no problems but please wire the radio so it turns on without the key on. That's usually how the Pertronix fry as someone turns on the key for the radio to play and when they go to start it, its dead. I do carry a set of points and condenser in the stash just in case.

I have an Ignitor in my german 009 and I know it states in then manual not to leave the ignition on. I was under the impression that the newer Ignitor version resolved the issue by having a shutoff built within the module if the key was left on.

[Amskeptic]

We move this thread to "Engine Forum" shortly. Please, onwards.
I am interested to hear of this "shut-off", 72Hardtop.
ColinGodDespotForumDictator

[72Hardtop]

Not sure if the 'Ignitor2' is used in the SVDA

Ignitor II specs:

Compared to points, averages 4 times more available energy between 3000 & 5000 RPM!

Adaptive dwell maintains peak energy throughout the entire RPM range, reducing misfires while improving engine performance.
Develops on average 4 times more available energy between 3000 and 5000 RPM, and 2 times more available plug voltage.
Peak current level is reached just prior to spark for maximum energy without the heat build-up, increasing coil and module life.
Adjusts spark timing at higher RPMs to compensate for the inherent electronic delay.
Senses startup and develops more energy for quicker, easier starting. Built in reverse polarity and over current protection shuts down the system, preventing component damage.
Legal in all 50 states and Canada (C.A.R.B. E.O. #D-57-2).
Guaranteed for 30 months

[Amskeptic]

Not sure if the 'Ignitor2' is used in the SVDA
Built in reverse polarity and over current protection shuts down the system, preventing component damage.

That may help win converts. It has been really too much like a fast-acting fuse to the unsuspecting . . .
Colin