Itinerant Air-Cooled

ruckman101 wrote: I have a set of swiss files. I've never heard of riffler files.

Similar, small but curved. Machinists use them for cleaning up. Here's a cheap set.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPA ... PG=INLMK32

Takes a looong time, get the big stuff with a Dremel if you can first. They're going to want to clog, rub them on some chalk first.

Mine are more like the diamond files there. But the rifflers look real handy. Mine aren't quite thin enough to get all the way down to the bottom between the fins closer to the piston that are closer together.

I knocked the bigger stuff off with the square end of a file and a teeny hammer, gently. They are done. Valve lapping time.


neal

First effort failed. On round two. I would imagine it would be best if all the springs were the same height when they are off the heads.


neal

More $. Machine shop, but got the angle grinds on the new valves. What are the consequences of running with a CR of 8:1?


neal

ruckman101 wrote:More $. Machine shop, but got the angle grinds on the new valves. What are the consequences of running with a CR of 8:1?


neal

Not recommended for an otherwise stock Type 1 engine. Without more information, it is impossible to speculate as to the specifics of your question.
Colin

More accurate measurements consistently gave me 7.2 : 1. Invested in a machine shop valve lap and grind. Heads on, exhaust on loosely, took a bit of doing as the studs on the new heads seem further apart from each other. And now, same issue with my intake. The heads want the intake pipes to be an eighth inch or so further apart. Initial efforts to pull them apart a bit got me no where. I really don't want to take the BFH to it.

Anyone have any thoughts?

neal

Resolved.

I put a bottle jack on the work bench edge, on top of blocks, and tucked one side of the intake manifold under the work bench, and the other on top of the jack and pried it open a bit. I think rocker arm geometry is the final concern other than just putting things back together. Oops, forgot those pesky clamps on the exhaust pipes coming into the muffler. Last time I gave that a go the task elicited streams of profanities from me.


neal

ruckman101 wrote:Resolved.

I put a bottle jack on the work bench edge, on top of blocks, and tucked one side of the intake manifold under the work bench, and the other on top of the jack and pried it open a bit. I think rocker arm geometry is the final concern other than just putting things back together. Oops, forgot those pesky clamps on the exhaust pipes coming into the muffler. Last time I gave that a go the task elicited streams of profanities from me.


neal

So your new engine is wider than the intake manifold remembers . . . . .

Exhaust clamps at the moustache bar?
Colin

Amskeptic wrote: So your new engine is wider than the intake manifold remembers . . . . .

I've always wondered how the stackup of parts affects this. Maybe that's why dual carbs exist for T1 engines. "Hey Beuford, I hear your hot 2007cc block is a little wiiiiide, so try these Webster things 'cause nothin' else will fit across…"

Ayep, a smidge wider. 3 mm or so. No flycuts? Exhaust clamps at the mustache bar seem fine. Assembled all loosely, then tightened down exhaust and intake system. It did a bit of creaking and groaning.

neal

And no spacers needed under my rocker arm assembly for proper geometry, woo hoo!


neal

Apparently the bottom tins need to go on BEFORE the exhaust.


neal

I discovered the same thing a few weeks ago...of all the details Bentley could have mentioned...

It was on there so perfectly, too.

neal

Damn, sorry to hear that. The left side requires removal of the heat exchanger, the right side doesn't if you have the split ( thermostat access) tin. The aftermarket single piece right side tin requires removing the heat exchanger....

So you could really just remove the left heat exchanger and leave the muffler/right exchanger/ intake manifold connected.

Bummer.
Robbie.