Tie Rods

Moderators: Sluggo, Amskeptic

Post Reply
User avatar
hambone
Post-Industrial Non-Secular Mennonite
Location: Portland, Ore.
Status: Offline

Tie Rods

Post by hambone » Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:07 am

They're orginal on the '68 Beetle and ready to be replaced. SO it goes.
Would this work? 16"....
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=1759

Also, is a German steering dampner available? Only see Brazilian out there.

O' lamentable neglected air cooled!
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat

User avatar
Sluggo
Wishin' I was Fishin'
Wishin' I was Fishin'
Location: Portland, Or.
Contact:
Status: Offline

Post by Sluggo » Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:55 am

I just did both Tie Rods and my Drag Link on Monday.

Rent a front end service kit from Autozone , Pep Boys or Kragen. You need a Tie Rod End Puller that comes in the kit. Rental at these stores means leaving a deposit for the cost of the item and getting it all back when you return the tool. For the inner ends of the Tie Rods you may want to use the Ball Joint Puller that comes in the kit. Not much room up there.

That pickle fork is a bitch and could do some damage. The amount of pressure it takes to remove this is amazing. Makes a sound like you just destroyed it when it releases.

I got the OEM Brazilian Damper and I like it. But that's comparing it to the old shot one.

I used Meyle Drag Link & Tie Rods. My steering feels very sure of itself now. But I do need to adjust the right rod a little. I keep pulling slightly to the right.
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

User avatar
hambone
Post-Industrial Non-Secular Mennonite
Location: Portland, Ore.
Status: Offline

Post by hambone » Wed Sep 19, 2007 6:31 pm

thanks man will do. Probably better quality than Harbor crap anyway.
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat

User avatar
Amskeptic
IAC "Help Desk"
IAC "Help Desk"
Status: Offline

Post by Amskeptic » Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:51 pm

Sluggo wrote:
I do need to adjust the right rod a little. I keep pulling slightly to the right.
That will not take care of pulling symptom. It will only change your toe-in and steering wheel position. Pulling is usually brake pad drag (remember that clicking question you had?), a low tire, more positive camber on the pulling side of the car, tight wheel bearing, etc.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

User avatar
Sluggo
Wishin' I was Fishin'
Wishin' I was Fishin'
Location: Portland, Or.
Contact:
Status: Offline

Post by Sluggo » Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:02 pm

Amskeptic wrote:
Sluggo wrote:
I do need to adjust the right rod a little. I keep pulling slightly to the right.
That will not take care of pulling symptom. It will only change your toe-in and steering wheel position. Pulling is usually brake pad drag (remember that clicking question you had?), a low tire, more positive camber on the pulling side of the car, tight wheel bearing, etc.
Colin
Actually it was my drag link. I had just installed that too.
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

Post Reply