Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 11:23 pm
Thank you. I'll be in touchgermansupplyscott wrote:yes, exactly. i had some of the ocap also but when i heard about this possible issue i removed them from the website.
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Thank you. I'll be in touchgermansupplyscott wrote:yes, exactly. i had some of the ocap also but when i heard about this possible issue i removed them from the website.
Mine are Lemforder. . . . . . . . . .germansupplyscott wrote: most joints have some marking stamped on them.
Nope. Ball joints usually outlast tie rod ends for no better reason than that the boots last longer.hambone wrote: Hey a question, can one assume that if tie rods are shot then so are ball joints?
I packed the rip with grease for 26 years. . . . kept the dirt out nicely. I am still sorry I changed out my ball joints. They worked fine.hambone wrote:What if the boots are torn? I think they are...
Is there no respite from idiocy??????bus71 wrote: I let a shop attempt the job. I drove about 2 miles and the suspension siezed. The shop said it was my gas shocks. Huh? Pulled shocks, still stuck.
I have been doing the same thing on my driver's side joint for a cuppla years now and it is still happy happy.hambone wrote:Thanks Colin for your advice, I will pack away! Grease is cheap, OE German quality is but vapor these days...
Is this the final word on the topic? I've got horribly ripped boots and nasty looking grease in there, but the steering seems fine. Hate to replace what isn't broken with something that might be not as good. Has anyone thought of a way to hack some kind of boot replacement? I have seen replacement CV boots that are split, and go around the joint like a kimono.Amskeptic wrote:I packed the rip with grease for 26 years. . . . kept the dirt out nicely. I am still sorry I changed out my ball joints. They worked fine.hambone wrote:What if the boots are torn? I think they are...