rear brakes squealing (like a pig)

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Ritter
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rear brakes squealing (like a pig)

Post by Ritter » Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:35 am

I had some fun driving on the Sonoma Coast Highway 1 this weekend. Lots of 2nd and 3rd gear adventures. Oh and did I mention my rear brakes were deafening?:oops:

In another thread, Colin said:
Amskeptic wrote:Rear brake warm squeaks are usually a hard glaze and shoes not properly chamfered at the leading edges.
I've got some brake pedal pulse that would suggest glazing. Now, if I pull the drums and sand at 45 each way to remove the hard glaze, will I need new shoes as well (they probably have less than 1000 miles on them)?

Please elaborate on the "chamfered" leading edge.
1978 Westfalia 2.0 FI

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Ritter
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Post by Ritter » Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 am

Well, I pulled the drums and sanded 45* both directions a few times each. Cleaned. Cleaned shoes. Put a ~45* bevel on the leading edges of the shoes. Cleaned shoes. Reassembled. Adjusted brakes. Drove and bedded shoes with two hard stops (did not stop rolling) at 35, 45 and 50.

Still squealing like stuck pigs after they get hot. Ideas? What am I doing wrong? Shitty shoes? Help!
1978 Westfalia 2.0 FI

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hambone
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Post by hambone » Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:35 am

My fronts squeal. I've learned to ignore them.
This MAY work for you!
:drunken:
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
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Sluggo
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Post by Sluggo » Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:53 am

Here's something stupid that I did. Did you reinstall the brake backing plates? Without them you get the worst squeal. Extremely loud.
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

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chitwnvw
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Post by chitwnvw » Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:08 pm

What year, Ritter?

See my thread about brakes, I learned a thing or two from Bretski.

bus71
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Post by bus71 » Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:59 pm

Did you sand the shoes also? Make sure that the retaining pins and springs are in place. You need to sand the drums so there are no shiny spots. I don't recomend any hard stops till about 500 miles. Good luck!

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Ritter
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Post by Ritter » Mon Oct 13, 2008 2:06 pm

chitwnvw wrote:What year, Ritter?

See my thread about brakes, I learned a thing or two from Bretski.
1978 (see sig line!)

Yeah, I've read that thread, but my problem is in the rear. I'm sure I'll reread it when I work on the fronts.
1978 Westfalia 2.0 FI

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Ritter
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Post by Ritter » Mon Oct 13, 2008 2:10 pm

bus71 wrote:Did you sand the shoes also?
No, I did not sand the shoes. I guess I should have?
bus71 wrote:Make sure that the retaining pins and springs are in place.
The little pins that should go through the backing plate, then the shoe and then get topped with a spring and shinny disk thing? I'd love to but can't seem to find any corresponding hole in the backing plate. Is this a bunk part or a year-specific omission?
bus71 wrote:You need to sand the drums so there are no shiny spots. I don't recomend any hard stops till about 500 miles. Good luck!
I did do this. Oops on the hard stops. So no bedding of the shoes?
1978 Westfalia 2.0 FI

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Post by bus71 » Mon Oct 13, 2008 2:31 pm

The pins may only be on older buses, don't know for sure. Sand the shoes also, then champher. There are differences of opinion on the hard stop. I was taught to avoid them on new brakes. This is what we told our customers. :profileleft:

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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Mon Oct 13, 2008 4:55 pm

Sorry I am late. You have to have to have to sand the linings at the same time you sand the drums. You do not have the retainer spring/pins of the earlier higher quality buses. Are your linings a consistent thickness around the circumference of the shoe webs? Sometimes a bad ebrake-left-on wear pattern will not respond to your chamfering. Also, keep your adjustment a little loose here while trying to figure out the squealing. You need both full release with the footbrakes and the ebrake and strong return springs correctly installed, i.e. the upper spring has to be behind the shoe web.

If it comes back, I am guessing dragging shoes.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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Sluggo
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Post by Sluggo » Mon Oct 13, 2008 5:13 pm

Sluggo wrote:Here's something stupid that I did. Did you reinstall the brake backing plates? Without them you get the worst squeal. Extremely loud.
Nevermind. I answered when I had just woke up. Realized on the way to work that you were talking about rear drums not front disks.
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

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Ritter
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Post by Ritter » Mon Oct 13, 2008 6:51 pm

Sluggo wrote:
Sluggo wrote:Here's something stupid that I did. Did you reinstall the brake backing plates? Without them you get the worst squeal. Extremely loud.
Nevermind. I answered when I had just woke up. Realized on the way to work that you were talking about rear drums not front disks.
No worries. Thanks for thinking of me on the way to work though! =D>
1978 Westfalia 2.0 FI

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Ritter
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Post by Ritter » Mon Oct 13, 2008 6:52 pm

Amskeptic wrote:Sorry I am late. You have to have to have to sand the linings at the same time you sand the drums. You do not have the retainer spring/pins of the earlier higher quality buses. Are your linings a consistent thickness around the circumference of the shoe webs? Sometimes a bad ebrake-left-on wear pattern will not respond to your chamfering. Also, keep your adjustment a little loose here while trying to figure out the squealing. You need both full release with the footbrakes and the ebrake and strong return springs correctly installed, i.e. the upper spring has to be behind the shoe web.

If it comes back, I am guessing dragging shoes.
Colin
I will try the next opportunity I get (probably 2 weekends...)
1978 Westfalia 2.0 FI

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chitwnvw
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Post by chitwnvw » Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:23 pm

Ritter wrote: I will try the next opportunity I get (probably 2 weekends...)
Chop, chop!

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karl
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Post by karl » Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:28 pm

If you are going to replace the shoes...... you might consider converting to Vanagon self-adjusting rear brakes. Saves having to adjust the bay shoes all the time..... http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/selfadjust.htm

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