Itinerant Air-Cooled

If the pads on my 73 bus are frozen to the disc does it mean i need a new calliper or can it be adjusted?

There is no adjustment that I know of.

Sounds like the caliper will need to be rebuilt or replaced. I'm guessing there is corrosion on the piston causing it to stick.....

Or the brake hose on that caliper has deteriorated to the point of sealing it shut in the closed position.

Thanks guys. This is what i found in my searches as well. I guess I am trying to narrow it down now. I am wondering, since it was only one brake that was freezing up, could I only need to flush the old fluid (probably 8 years old!) and change the brake hoses?

The Bentley also mentions cleaning the master cylinder's compensating port as a possible fix for overheating and binding of the brakes.
1. I am wondering if this is a solution when this is happening to both front brakes. Mine is only on the driver's side so I am thinking that it is not the master cylinder or the pushrod clearance. Is this right?

2. Since it is only the one side is it worth it to just flush the system and change the hoses to see if it helps?

3.a. If I release some of the pressure in the system through the bleeder valve should it release the pads from the rotor?
b. If it does not, does this mean my pistons are frozen?

The answers to all your question are yes....

I tried to release the pressure through the bleeders but it did not work. There was no fluid traveling down the flex hose to the bleeders. When i took off the hose i had a steady drip from the brake line but nothing through the hose. I am going to flush the system and put on the new brake hoses and tomorrow.

Thanks.

iwantmybustorun wrote:I tried to release the pressure through the bleeders but it did not work. There was no fluid traveling down the flex hose to the bleeders.

When I changed out my rubber hoses, there was enough crap (decomposed rubber) that it plugged up one bleeder. You can totally remove them to clean it out. Remember, this is fun!

You can totally remove them to clean it out. Remember, this is fun!
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I will do this. I already took one off and it was clean. I will take the other one off tomorrow and clean it too.

I am actually having fun. This is my first brake adventure. I am enjoying the learning process so far. I just hope this is the problem and not something more expensive, like the calipers.

Thanks

Brakes are one of the simplest and easiest systems to get right.

Today went well I think. The new hoses went on easy and the flush and bleed went well too. I took it for a quick test drive, slamming the brakes hard to see if i could get the hard pull to the right that I had noticed before. The result was near perfect. So I think my fix is a success!

My only concern now is that both sides seam to drag on the rotor a little bit. Is this normal? I don't think so. So tomorrow i will try to back off the push rod to see if that helps.

Thanks.

The pads will drag slightly on the disc. Not enough to abruptly stop the wheel when you turn it off the ground but you will hear a slight rub. Enough that the wheel should come to a slow stop by the pads rubbing and not by coasting.

Westy78 wrote:The pads will drag slightly on the disc. Not enough to abruptly stop the wheel when you turn it off the ground but you will hear a slight rub. Enough that the wheel should come to a slow stop by the pads rubbing and not by coasting.

Really?! Wow. I am very green with this brake stuff. That surprises me. On the other hand, after my test drive last night, I felt the wheels and they did not feel warm due to the friction so I guess that makes sense.

Thanks again guys. I think my work on the brakes is done for now... with a total cost of 36 dollars. $4 for the brake fluid and $32 for the hoses. No labor cost and no new calipers! YA!

The best part is that I am finished in time for my camping trip. Leaving today. Wish me good vibes. My first camping trip since the resto work.