Itinerant Air-Cooled

The 1970 bus straddles changes midyear. My master cylinder is going south, so I picked up a replacement and was pleasantly surprised it was only $55, Mexican, vs the other one, German, hovering around $200. Sure enough, the inexpensive one is wrong. I have a 211 611 021 T,



and apparently I need a 211 611 021 Q. No brake booster.




The two are identical except that the Q will accept two brake light/warning switches, and the T will only connect one.

Can I use the T? What do I lose if I leave one of the switches dangling?



neal

one will be for brake lites and the other is the warning lite. gotta have brake lites and i imagine you'd be aware of it if your drums needed adjustment, badly, or if a brake sprung a leak. i think the e-brake ''on'' side of the warning lite would still work.

question is, is the m/c for vacuum assist up to the task without the assist. not many will stick their neck out and tell you to go ahead. might be able to determine bore and stroke of m/c through research, try looking up rebuild kits for both. might wanna look at w/c sizes also. got disc or drum up front? did power brakes an disc begin together? lots of questions to be studied. rebuild kits even available? maybe rebuild the one you have.

Actually, the middle prong on both switches is for that stupid warning light, and both switches power the rear brake lights. There are two switches so in the event of one of the two brake circuits or switches failing, you will still have brake lights. So I would assume the single switch unit just lacks that fail-safe. Roll it and just keep your ins and reg handy if the single switch fails and you get pulled over or worse...

ok, there ya go on switches.

Thanks for the clarification DjEep. Might just have to do it.


neal

ruckman101 wrote:Thanks for the clarification DjEep. Might just have to do it.


neal

I got a cheap new Mexican brake master cylinder just all shiny and clean and leaking on Chloe.
Now which one is less expensive ?? I think I will take the German one and hopefully forget about the pain of the initial cost, cuz I sure as heck do not appreciate spending my money on crap.
Colin
(Road Warrior had 26 years on the oem master cylinder, come on! they know how to make these things)

Well I did swap it out for a German version that accepts both brake signal switches. Hoping there is a rebuild kit for the one on there now. I'm a bit confused about what seems to be a third brake line connection on it, and other variances. I'll get a photo up soon of the German one.


neal

What the HELL? It used to be Mexican was OK, Brazil = crap.
New parts leaking...and the 99% here barely staying above water. Consumer demand will hopefully change, until we build another bubble that is.

the type 1 m/c in my buggy has 3. 1 for each front wheel and 1 for both rear wheels. i suspect yours is from a vendor doing multi application production. volvo used a lot of the same parts, back in the day, probably other euro cars too.

Whooda thunk replacing it would lead to minutia.

neal

Here's the photo.








Thanks vdubya73.

neal

Sure enough, the old master cylinder has the casting for the third line, but nothing tapped in. Solid metal. So now I have to figure out how to block the third line, or run a third line. Sheesh. Minutia.


neal

if your existing front brake line will reach one of the front ports, with out kinking, buy a plug for it. probably find the correct type at a real autoparts store, not so much at an autobling store.

10/1 thread taper I hear. Which must be without the brake line fitting on there now. The other suggestion was to plug it with a third brake light switch. Or a brake line plug?


neal

just bring the m/c with you to an autoparts store that caters to work vehicles, i use napa around here. the one with geezers behind the counter.