T4 Engine Rebuild Tips, Tricks, & Don't Do It's!

Contribute, Battle-Scarred Repair Warriors!

Moderators: Sluggo, Amskeptic

Post Reply
User avatar
Sluggo
Wishin' I was Fishin'
Wishin' I was Fishin'
Location: Portland, Or.
Contact:
Status: Offline

T4 Engine Rebuild Tips, Tricks, & Don't Do It's!

Post by Sluggo » Thu Jun 22, 2006 7:15 pm

Here are some tips & tricks plus a few warnings when it comes to rebuilding your Type IV Engine.

WARNINGS

1. Do Not take the cooling fan apart. It is balanced from the factory. Even if you aligned it exactly the same as when it was removed, it's now unbalanced. You'll either need to take it to a shop and have it balanced or get another.

2. Mark the position of the pressure plate to the flywheel. This will ensure the correct balance when re-assembled provided it was balanced correctly in the first place.

3. If you have just installed a 914 Taco Plate Oil Temperature Sender in place of your existing one, install it only after the engine is installed. Otherwise you stand a very good chance of bending the plate or breaking the sender. They stick out of the bottom of the case and if the engine weight is put on them, you stand a good chance of doing some damage. Mine cracked right at the little white plastic nub that holds the brass wire tab. I hear this happens a lot.

4. When you clear the bolts for your new Camshaft Gear, make sure you torque down the oil pump nuts while checking the clearance. You may think you did it perfectly, but once you torque down that pump you might be interfering just slightly. It probably won't be enough to stop the engine from turning. But it will be enough to shave off little pieces of Cam Bolts & Oil Pump Studs that will get in your oil and between your new gears & bearings.

5. (from vwlover77) On the Type 4 Bus Engine, don't forget to reinstall the motor mounts that the moustache bar (rear engine support) bolts to BEFORE reinstalling the fan housing! They can be installed afterwards if you forget, but it is very difficult. (I know this from personal experience!)


TIPS / TRICKS

1. A broom handle makes an excellent Clutch Alignment Tool.

2. For first start oil pressure build-up, crank the starter only with the plugs out. This will help the Oil Pressure Light to go out. Do not crank longer than 15 seconds at a time.

3. A tip from Dave Darling at Pelican Parts. You can squirt oil into the pick up tube with a Turkey Baster (that's right). This should help to prime the pump. (likewise, you can fill the galleries from the oil pressure switch hole with a squirt can of engine oil and know that as it drains into the pump you are helping the pump to prime as well-ed)

4. (from vwlover77) An old seat-belt strap makes a great tool for pulling the valve cover retaining springs loose, and getting them back up onto the valve cover so you can then use a large screwdriver to pry them into their final position. (obviously not just for rebuilds)

(unlocked 01/12/12)

Post Reply