I will be well indebted to you kind folks if you can help me sort out this difficult idle issue I can't correctly diagnose and resolve.
I am struggling to get my bus back on the road after taking off the dual Webers and installing the fuel injection system. I've spent many, many hours reading the Bosch FI manual, my Bentley, this website, and the Samba too. Here's a timeline of what I've done:
- >> Early 2013: rebuilt engine due to a failing camshaft. Installed dual carbs because my old FI system needed rehabbing.
>> Late December: Installed FI system, no idle, backfiring, can run up RPMs okay, fixed leaking cold start valve, tested double relay, verified harness continuity, tested Aux Air Regulator, tested for vacuum leaks multiple times, changed out Temp Sensor II, checked injectors for spraying, tears, arguing with wife over the value of owning a bus, towed the bus to Perry's automotive in Auburn, WA, frustration ensues
>> Early January: Perry's corrected my mismatched spark plug wires (careless, stupid mistake). He screwed the AFM mixture screw all the way in and was able to get it to idle while cold, but it wouldn't idle when it was warm, said the AFM was the last cause.
>> Two weeks prior: drove around on the Perry's setup to get a feel for things and find some time to work on it: unable to go much faster than 45 mph or go up anything more than a moderate incline without downshifting to 3rd or 2nd if the hill is substantial enough. Significantly underpowered, even for a bus.
>> This past weekend: Ordered a used AFM (an 018) from a seller off the Samba. Came from a running bus with too much body damage to save: Arrived on Wednesday. Appears to have had the seal broken at some point in it's past. Cleaned it and set it aside since my AFM hadn't been tampered with. I didn't want to go that route just yet.
>> Last night: My AFM (an 018) has never had it's seal broken, but I did find the flapper door was sticky at it's extremes. A little cleaning and lube with WD40 and it now moves freely, reinstalled, no idle cold or warm, but can still run up the RPMs
>> Today: I started with the assumption that my AFM was good since it had worked on my bus about a year ago (before the engine rebuild) and doesn't seem to be fussed with so presumably any issues would have been from mis-set mixture and idle air bypass screws, ran a sweep combining changing the air bypass screws (1/4 turn at a time) with changes in the mixture screw, found a few regions where the car would start, idle roughly for a bit then dies, minor tweaks to explore these regions revealed no change, tears, cursing, frustration, installed spare AFM, ran through a sweep of idle air bypass screw settings (full in to 10 turns out), no change. Didn't adjust the mixture screw because I want to keep this is a "control" variable since it came from a running bus, called Franklin's (just down the hill) about an hour ago, left a voicemail, but haven't heard back yet
>> Now: waiting on Franklin's, divine intervention, or profound insight for the good minds here
Andrew
EDIT: One more thing that did occur to me: when looking down the s-boot side of both AFMs and pushing the flap open, the edge of the doors seem to be at a slight non-vertical angle. Is that correct? Seems like they'd be vertical.