Overheated. Bertha issues.

[ruckman101]

SP 1600 with a main seal leak Colin revived after I couldn't and AAA'd home with admonitions.

See video. http://blip.tv/ruckman101/ramona-s-revival-2355723

So my engine hit it's last days and Ramona's was put to the task. Admirably. Been running so well I wasn't that concerned about a bit of travel. So off we go.

Although, I had a nagging suspicion I wasn't comfortable with. With the better mileage Gretchen Ghia gets, Bertha has become less of a daily driver. But a full month before, starting Bertha, the idle wasn't right. Would die unless you goosed it a bit to keep things going, a symptom of concern quickly dismissed, because a mere moment and everything seemed dandy quick. Running fantastic.

So he head out from Amboy, destination Port Orford, with a stop in Florence. We stop in Florence a good three, four hours. Bertha will barely start. Idle wants to die, put clutch to engine and balk, embarrassing. I've been bragging her up. High rpms and engine finds itself running. And yep, warming up helps. Nagging, but another jog to Port Orford without much of a concern once underway, arriving at destination without further trauma.

Next morning I crawled all over that engine. Full tune-up. Check distributor advance works, check vacuum works, check point gap, polish rotor and cap, polish points, check timing, change the oil in the air cleaner. None of it was whacked horribly off.

Cold start marginally better.

And the entire drive dealing with a transmission that recently decided fourth gear is one to pop out of.

So I'm not happy and concerned, and figure I-5 would be a happy space of flat an let's get home, taking 38, the kindest highway I have ever enjoyed from coast to interior and I-5 connection just below Cottage Grove.

Fantastic. Clipped along at 70 mph, passing trucks, getting home. Then after Eugene, I noticed my accelerator pedal was flat hard on the floor. So I eased off. So did my speed. And shortly, losing power, at 50 mph, with a thick black cloud of smoke pouring out behind, I put in the clutch, coasted, asked Cheryle about any available fire extinguisher, and turned off the ignition. Engine was indeed hot.

Much adventures were had in the process of getting a AAA tow with out a personal cell phone.

All the tune-up efforts I found no anomaly, but the electrical connection at the carburetor auto choke was loose. I suspected choke and carburetor complications. No noise, no grinding, no connecting rod knock, flummoxed.

I have done nothing yet, other than check the oil level, which is full, no concern from the dip stick, and applied a wrench to the bottom pulley to confirm it didn't seize. But it wasn't turning over through the belt cranking the generator pulley. Tight, but turning.

My father-in-law's opinion is that I lost a piston. A small crack in the head of one makes more and more sense as I ponder it.

Regardless, something's up, and as I haven't done anything else at this point, I thought it might make a good Troubleshooting/Diagnosis thread.


neal

[sped372]

I'm sorry to hear the news, but I'd just like to say that I love the way you write. I hope it all works out for you.

[ruckman101]

Unresolved issues are always humbling.


neal

[zabo]

junk in carb- check needle valve?

[ruckman101]

A compression test will be the first step. If good, then the carb. Fingers crossed.

And thanks Sped.

neal

[Amskeptic]

A compression test will be the first step. If good, then the carb. Fingers crossed.

And thanks Sped.

neal

I did not see "valve adjustment" in your write up. Were any tight?

Black smoke from where on the engine? Yes, you see a cloud in the rear view mirror, but what was its source?

Not happy and concerned, then 70 mph? I'm sorry, but that is above the maximum allowable speed for an early bus. Yes, it will do it. But no, it cannot cool itself in optimal conditions, much less road weary conditions. I am feeling out the Type 1 engine's happy place on the road, and so far with this particular stock build, find that it is happy at 62. Have never hit 70 mph since owning this car.

I will follow this thread as best I can as I do my Texas bodywork week.
Colin

[sped372]

Was it a true 70 or an optimistic speedo 70? I cruise at 70 all day (which is actually 57).

[ruckman101]

Yes, checked valves that morning before departure. Some were snug, but nothing radical. It was dark when I pulled over, so wasn't able to tell where the smoke was originating from. Did notice an oily puddle under cylinder head one and two on the tow flatbed.

And yep, a true 70 mph. Finally getting to give things a look today. Will let you know what I find out.


neal

[hambone]

Mine too runs best at 65 on the speedo, really about 62-63. But I can also cruise along at true 65 for many moons.
Figure it out one step at a time. Could be a head, could be a lot of things.

[ruckman101]

Looks like my valves are stretching on cylinder #3. Valves were fine on cylinders one and two, but no gap at all on numbers three and four. On four, had to turn out the screw 1/4 of a turn on both intake and exhaust before I got a gap back. On number three, a full one and 1/2 turns. A hint of overheating on the head at the exhaust of #3.

Should I do a compression test?


neal

[ruckman101]

Cold compression test.

Cylinder #1 - 112
Cylinder #2 - 122
Cylinder #3 - zero
Cylinder #4 - 100

Out she comes.


neal

[ruckman101]

A hole in the center of cylinder of #3's piston a touch bigger than a nickel.


neal

[Amskeptic]

A hole in the center of cylinder of #3's piston a touch bigger than a nickel.
neal

Neal, I am sorry to hear this. Were both valves intact? What color were they? Intact valves and a hole in the piston is dramatic evidence of the silent-but-deadly detonation damage.

What distributor is on this engine? Remember that the '70 bus without the doghouse oil cooler is relying on the factory vacuum-only distributor's merciful 3* retarded breaker cam lobe to help it stay cool.

In the name of forensics, please:
a) do a static time check if the distributor is still in the case and the crankshaft pulley is still on crank.
You want to see if the points open sooner at #1 than at #3. IF you find out that your distributor was incorrectly installed with the wires reversed, it will run apparently fine, but #3 will suffer. I expect your engine is stripped down, you can do static timing check with a simple ohmmeter. When #1 signals the ohmmeter, note where the timing mark is in relation to the crankcase seam, see that #3 is AFTER that position when you rotate the crankshaft exactly one turn. If it is at the SAME position, your distributor is designed for a doghouse engine. If it signals BEFORE the #1 position did, your wires are 180* off for that distributor.

b) what carburetor is on this engine (was, was on this engine before you removed it)? Please check main jet size and let me know.

c) what type of plugs are on the engine (heat range #s, not just brand)

ColinThisIsForYourOwnGoodThisHurtsMeMoreThanItHurtsYou

[ruckman101]

Valves intact. Vacuum only distributor. 30/31 carb.

Yes, engine is pretty stripped. Cylinders and pistons the only thing left to do before splitting the case. But then, nothing has moved since the distributor and pulley were pulled.

Other notes: Head bolts seemed loose over #3, as did the nuts holding the intake manifold to the head. The two top head bolts over #3 broke from the case before the nut broke from the stud.

Will source out better detail and answers to your other questions.

Maybe tonight, except for the static timing. Probably Monday before I can get to it. A couple photos, cylinder and head of #3.


neal.

[ruckman101]

Distributor:
VW 113 905 205 T
Q231 137 035

Carb:
H30/31 pict

Plugs:
On the plug itself, Bosch WR8AC+ Germany 983

Here's the head. Guess which one was #3.



I'll get a better shot of the head at some point. Monday?

And on a lighter note, our struggling garden.




neal