Noises and idle issues after head replacement

[dingo]

If it were me, id put a vacuum gauge on it...that will eliminate a lot of the random and redundant speculation.

whats your location ?

[pdlrofdrms]

It was the Distributor. I switched it with a flamethrower 009 I had already.
It runs great now.
I have the Vacuum line plugged.

What a difference.

The noise even sounds not as bad.

Its def in the lower end but its not as loud anymore at all!

SO happy.

[airkooledchris]

That spare motor I picked up recently has a federal distributor with a normal points setup inside. If that tests out ok your welcome to it so you can use a proper vacuum advance setup. Ill have to make sure the vacuum can on it is functioning first and then maybe just swap it in and see if it runs as well...

[pdlrofdrms]

Okay Update for all that are interested:

1. Since the install of the 009 flamethrower I had from pertronix it runs great.
2. still has a knocking sound from the lower end but not super loud anymore now that all is running smooth.
3. I checked my timing and reset it.
3.Did a compression check. All cylinders are at 120. even steven.
4. Had the air to fuel mixture adjusted today still needs a slight adjustment however their machine was broken so they did it by ear. The spark plugs and the exsaust pipe had a black carbon build up.
5. Did another smoke test and still have a small vacuum leak at the brake booster valve. ( any tips: Its a new check valve with e6000 on each end of the hose. It was set over night) The leak is better but still there.
6. I purchased a vacuum gauge should be in the mail shortly. So I can check for leaks or breakdowns in the system for reals soon.
7. need to figure out the clutch adjustment. Still feels like its hard to shift sometimes. Maybe its cause I have been driving a automatic dodge for 6 months but my gut is telling me its an adjustment of some sort. I have adjusted it twice already. Feels good at the peddle. Maybe more investigation is needed.



Now on to another question?

Is there a thread that talks about the difference between ported and intake vacuum?

Thanks Colin and Chris for your help.

http://youtu.be/JmtwRUDXsnQ
Link to how is runs now.

I will report back on how it does on the trip to Eugene.

Jenn

[dingo]

Now on to another question?

Is there a thread that talks about the difference between ported and intake vacuum?


Manifold vacuum: the vacuum resulting from piston suction behind a closed throttle plate. approx 20psi at idle.
as soon as throttle opens, manifold vacuum dissapears to 0, because the system is now open to the equalization of atmospheric pressure. used by brake servo and variety of other gizmos
Ported vacuum: ports hidden behind the throttle plate...they see 0 at idle (throttle plate closed and blocking them)
when throttle opens...they begion to see 'some' vacuum 2, 5, 10 psi etc...as throttle opens further...used by dizz.
Venturi vacuum: used chiefly by the carburettor..based upon the flow of mass of air thru a slightly restricted throat (the venturi of the carb)


get yourself an abovementioned vacuum guage and see it all for yourself...

[pdlrofdrms]

Thanks...

[Amskeptic]

Thanks...

Read this, bottom half:

[pdlrofdrms]

I made it to Eugene and back!!!!!

Easy peasy.
45 up steep hills, I was packed to the gills with coolers and everyone skate gear.

65 on the flat ground.

I did have a minor problem I stopped to grab a bite and then no turn over.

Nothing!!!

I checked the lights and they were fine. Nice and bright.

So not the battery! SHOOT.

Next starter?

Hit the solenoid with the hammer and poof started right up!

Guess a bus is never done.
Geeze.

Well at least this one it kinda easy.

[pdlrofdrms]

Is this almost ready for us knuckle heads. So neat thank you Colin

[Amskeptic]

Okay so last night I pulled on the pulley. It moves but barely. Not even enough to pull and it stays pulled I have to pull back and forth with a lot of strength to get it to barely move.
I am assuming that is good?


I have not had a chance to do a compression check. Going to do that after work today.

Still idles rough.

Thinking of taking the suggestion here and changing the oil again to 20/50.

I drove it to work today.

One thing I noticed its kinda hard to shift.

Not terrible.

But not normal either.

I adjusted the clutch. Feels great. MMMM...

I will try and upload a high RPM video tonight too.

Sorry I have been remiss in responding. I do not want to see a fresh upper rebuild get harmed, and I am nervous that you are not getting good solid diagnostics. These fuel injection systems *do* hiss through the intake plenum, particularly when the idle screw is cranked open. If your leak checks do not show leaks, then you don't have leaks. But why is it running poorly?

Get the engine warmed up (and it *will* need to be driven for long distances under serious loads to get rid of the moisture in the oil, so get it running well, asap). Will it idle by itself? See if airkooledchris will be in the area for you can do a cylinder rpm drop test. With a tachometer or tach/ dwell meter, you pull each spark plug wire out of the distributor cap one at a time, to see if any one cylinder is not dropping the engine rpms like the rest. This will be your problem cylinder. If any spark plug wire does not drop the rpms very much, it will help you answer why it is not running well. We need to ask the engine if all cylinders are contributing equally under the nasty symptoms. If tthey are all equal, then our causes go more towards the fuel system, the mixture. Airkooledchris, are you game to ask her engine how it likes its mixture according the AFM write-up?

Hard shifting must be addressed. It is usually a pilot bearing not properly lubricated, or a clutch disk spline that is not properly lubricated. Yes the clutch may *engage* nicely, but hard shifting means it is not *disengaging* properly.
Colin

[airkooledchris]

If any spark plug wire does not drop the rpms very much, it will help you answer why it is not running well. We need to ask the engine if all cylinders are contributing equally under the nasty symptoms. If they are all equal, then our causes go more towards the fuel system, the mixture. Airkooledchris, are you game to ask her engine how it likes its mixture according the AFM write-up?
Colin

I actually thought to do the plug test when I first saw this motor running - but there didn't appear to be one that wasn't contributing as much as the others.

No problem on doing an AFM test - if we get a chance before your visit. Jenn - just ping me when your available and we'll see where yours is at currently. We can also try swapping in a known good setup for comparison.

[pdlrofdrms]

Colin I am not sure if you caught this post. It came after my last one you just responded too.

My Dad was visiting from So Cal and he also did the spark plug test.
We figured out number four was not equally participating. His fingers must be numb from years on working on cars cause he did it bare handed.
Which then sparked the Compression check.
He said good compression that means Electrical.

I put back together the pertronix 009 flamethrower I had torn apart in a fit one day ,and installed it.
Timed it
And holy smokes ran awesome!!!

I know vacuum advance is important on these motors. My dad says no. Every thing I read days yes. Hence my question about mechanical and vacuum advance.
Then I find out about venturi. WHAAAT. I am still a bit confused but I will study more. I get the idea of it. But I still don't quite get it.


Anyway here is my new update:

1. Since the install of the 009 flamethrower I had from pertronix it runs great.
2. still has a knocking sound from the lower end but not super loud anymore now that all is running smooth.
3. I checked my timing and reset it.
3.Did a compression check. All cylinders are at 120. even steven.
4. Had the air to fuel mixture adjusted today still needs a slight adjustment however their machine was broken so they did it by ear. The spark plugs and the exsaust pipe had a black carbon build up.
5. Did another smoke test and still have a small vacuum leak at the brake booster valve. ( any tips: Its a new check valve with e6000 on each end of the hose. It was set over night) The leak is better but still there.
6. I purchased a vacuum gauge should be in the mail shortly. So I can check for leaks or breakdowns in the system for reals soon.
7. need to figure out the clutch adjustment. Still feels like its hard to shift sometimes. Maybe its cause I have been driving a automatic dodge for 6 months but my gut is telling me its an adjustment of some sort. I have adjusted it twice already. Feels good at the peddle. Maybe more investigation is needed.

[pdlrofdrms]

OH AND...
Yes did a smoke test and a bit of smoke comes out of the brake booster check valve. But no where else.

I could use your help there cause I have rtv,, E6000, new check valved, new clamps, and while better still a bit of a vacuum leak.
But at least it doesnt look like a camp fire anymore.

Tomorrow going to replace the starter and install a new horn.
Cant figure out how to get my pictures to be blocked? maybe its the format.

Thanks for everything

[Amskeptic]

OH AND...
Yes did a smoke test and a bit of smoke comes out of the brake booster check valve. But no where else.

I could use your help there cause I have rtv,, E6000, new check valved, new clamps, and while better still a bit of a vacuum leak.
But at least it doesnt look like a camp fire anymore.

Tomorrow going to replace the starter and install a new horn.
Cant figure out how to get my pictures to be blocked? maybe its the format.

Thanks for everything

When you say that smoke comes out of the brake booster valve, where? Outside surfaces? The valve does allow air to go towards the engine from the booster, just not the other way.
Colin

[Bleyseng]

Colin I am not sure if you caught this post. It came after my last one you just responded too.

My Dad was visiting from So Cal and he also did the spark plug test.
We figured out number four was not equally participating. His fingers must be numb from years on working on cars cause he did it bare handed.
Which then sparked the Compression check.
He said good compression that means Electrical.

I put back together the pertronix 009 flamethrower I had torn apart in a fit one day ,and installed it.
Timed it
And holy smokes ran awesome!!!

I know vacuum advance is important on these motors. My dad says no. Every thing I read days yes. Hence my question about mechanical and vacuum advance.
Then I find out about venturi. WHAAAT. I am still a bit confused but I will study more. I get the idea of it. But I still don't quite get it.


Anyway here is my new update:

1. Since the install of the 009 flamethrower I had from pertronix it runs great.
2. still has a knocking sound from the lower end but not super loud anymore now that all is running smooth.
3. I checked my timing and reset it.
3.Did a compression check. All cylinders are at 120. even steven.
4. Had the air to fuel mixture adjusted today still needs a slight adjustment however their machine was broken so they did it by ear. The spark plugs and the exsaust pipe had a black carbon build up.
5. Did another smoke test and still have a small vacuum leak at the brake booster valve. ( any tips: Its a new check valve with e6000 on each end of the hose. It was set over night) The leak is better but still there.
6. I purchased a vacuum gauge should be in the mail shortly. So I can check for leaks or breakdowns in the system for reals soon.
7. need to figure out the clutch adjustment. Still feels like its hard to shift sometimes. Maybe its cause I have been driving a automatic dodge for 6 months but my gut is telling me its an adjustment of some sort. I have adjusted it twice already. Feels good at the peddle. Maybe more investigation is needed.

The 009 just doesn't have enough advance compared to the stock dizzy. The stock dizzy has 28 degrees of mechanical advance plus the vacuum advance (about 10-12 degrees of advance) to a total of max 38-40 degrees of advance. This helps in off idle take offs so the 009 with its max 17 degrees of advance must be timed at 28 BTDC at 3500 rpms which leaves the idle timing at around 12 degrees which is a little high. Still you can end up with a off idle stumble which is a pain with the 009.
Rebuild or have rebuilt your stock dizzy and put it back in.
Hopefully you are using a timing light to time the engine.