Itinerant Air-Cooled

Hippie wrote: ^^^What was that? I didn't hear that!?^^^

That's good. I use these OEMs too on my Tacoma.

Hey, hey! Easy now...Toyotas are maintenance free, dontcha know???

Pretty much! LOL. I got some grease fittings on my truck--other than that...

Now that the oil is clear above the “grit stacks,” here are some more objective pictures:
Left to right; Fram orange, WIX, K&N
It appear the WIX does best, Fram second and then K&N.





Left to right; Mobil 1, PureOne, K&N, Denso, and WIX
This oil/talc concentration is stronger than in the above picture.
Note that I attempted to bracket the tops and bottoms of the grit stacks for visibility because some of these are resting on air bubbles rather than the bottom of the tube. The results are as expected considering the relative turbidity of the oil tubes before settling out with the exception of the K&N which must have developed a media leak. As in the picture above, it already has been tested. I don’t know what happened to the K&N as it was handled with the same care as the others. Must be a defect. (still unacceptable to leak like this)

Hippie wrote:Sure! (or shore as I say it) Bring me a whatever you want butchered and dirtified. (I always cringe a little at cutting open a brand new quality filter.)

Sweet.

Although it's yet to be determined whether the filter is "quality".

Adventurewagen wrote:Sweet.

Although it's yet to be determined whether the filter is "quality".

True that. I should say expensive.
I got like $50 worth of filters in this project so far.

The difference with Euro filters I usually see is that they are well constructed physicaaly, but meant to run at least 40 weight oil for up to 2 years so they may have a pretty open porosity. We'll see.
Germans can't understand why we change filters every oil change--but our filters probably clean better right off the bat and plug up faster.
Again, we'll see....

I want to look at several things on these German filters. Anti drain back valves, bypass valves, flow, and relative cleanling ability like before.

Hippie wrote:So I posted it on TS and the only reply so far was asking why I didn't test Mann or Mahle filters.

I think the proper response would be "That's a great idea. Why don't you send me two of each and I'll be happy to test them."

You can't trust 'em to do the job themselves ... gotta keep test methods identical, and you know them best.

Let us know how the Mann/Mahle filters fair. I'm pissed about the K&N. I always use Mann/Mahle and when I can't I used (used) K&N. Plus K&N has that nifty little nut welded to the bottom of the filter for easy removal.

Where can you find Denso & Pure One filters for a Bus? I looked around just a little and NADA.

again testing proves that Fram are crap filters......

Sluggo wrote:Where can you find Denso & Pure One filters for a Bus? I looked around just a little and NADA.

PurOne is here: http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/res ... um=PL14670 I refernced a 1973 Transporter. I think they are all the same but go to their website under resources + application guide to check.

The K&N isn't gonna hurt anything, but I didn't get great filtration on this test. I may run it again later.

Rather than trying to find the Denso, I would contact either Champion Labs (the actual maker) or Mobil 1 and see if they can match an Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filter. I'm pretty sure the M1-204 is correct, but you really should confirm with them.

Bleyseng wrote:again testing proves that Fram are crap filters......

No surprises

JLT wrote:I think the proper response would be "That's a great idea. Why don't you send me two of each and I'll be happy to test them."

You can't trust 'em to do the job themselves ... gotta keep test methods identical, and you know them best.

You're right the test should be the same, but there is some flex there since it's a comparison rather than looking for a beta ratio.
I got limited time. I did get a couple -- a Mann and a Mahle from chitwn and a Delco is in the mail to me from a guy in Michigan from another site.

Here is the un-finalized test of the Mahle OC 28, Mann W920/17, and the Mobil 1 M1-204 is being used as a reference as it did quite well in the previous filtration tests.

First let's look at the construction of these three.
The Mahle and Mann have no apparent bypass valves and no anti-drainback valves. The M1 does have both. The anti-drainback valve is not very important in this application since the filters for the T-4 engine are mounted right side up (threaded end up, dome end down) so they don't lose there oil fill when the engine is off. The ADBV is there to keep oil in the filter and prevent dry starts when the filter is mounted in some orientation other than threaded end up.

The bypass valve is there to allow oil to bypass the filter elemnt if it hould become clogged, or when the oil is still cold and thick.
This of course prevents oil starvation during running.
Since the Mann and Mahle filters have a pretty flexible spring holding the filter element to the threaded base plate, I believe this might be their version of a emergency oil bypass arrangement. I still prefer the dedicated bypass valve that the M1 has.

The oil inlet hole areas were similar at 0.377 in² Mahle, 0.309 in², Mann, and 0.324 in² M1.

The total areas of the filter media were 262.5 in² Mahle, 242.2 in² Mann,
and 175.3 in² M1.

In cold oil, the fill rate in cubic centimeters of oil per minute by gravity was 341 Mahle, 417 Mann, and 69 M1.
Obviously, the German filters blew away the M1 in flow resistance.
Bear in mind though, that I have never seen a significant oil pressure drop even when using filters more restrictive than the M1. Plus the M1 has the discreet bypass valve for cold oil so I wouldn't consider this a fault in the M1. The Germans like to leave their oil filters on for up to two years and 20K km so it is no surprise the oil runs right through a new element.
Whereas the M1 flow is in line with other American style filters we are used to using on our daily drivers and changing every oil change.

All three had a have a heavy baseplate and 0.024" canister wall thickness.
The M1 has rolled threads which are stronger, but the Mahle had the most threads.



The Mann and mahle bothe have a beautifully smooth element texture that leads me to belive they are fully synthetic material. The M1 uses a blend of synthetic and natural cellulose.



I will post back when the grit settles, but this is a look at the initial turbidity. Left to right, Mahle, Mann, Wix (kind of stuck in there as an afterthought) and the M1. The Mann and Mahle look pretty good--clearer than the Wix, but not as clear as the M1.
we'll take another, better look at filtration total when the grit settles for a few days.

Now you'll have to go back and post on TS. Or should we keep this for ourselves?

I did already, but they moved the post from Buses to Off Topic so it'll never get seen.
Thanks again for the German filters to test.