rear defrost - repurpose?

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 10:56 am

It's not really an electrical question exactly (more of a bay question) which is why I posted here.
Well, my rear defrost is shot. The little lines that run over the glass are completely worn, (beyond repair, really - there are sections a foot long that are worn off) BUT... the switch and everything work just fine now. Which got me thinking - now I've got a 12v line running to the back of the bus that is conveniently turned on and off with the defrost switch.

Any suggestion what I could use that for? There must ve something more interesting out there than just putting a 12v cooler back there. I figured I'd wire up a socket and then I could turn it on and off remotely. If I ever get the deforst working, I can just pop the wire back on in the winter. (not that I need it in this climate)

thisistheshortestusername · Post by **thisistheshortestusername** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 11:15 am

You can always put a 12v to 110v converter back there. I've seen them as cheap as $30 now days. Then you can run appliances, stereos, comptuers, DVD players or whatever back there. Or put a neon sign that says "Bush Sucks" in the rear window.

BusBerd · Post by **BusBerd** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 6:31 pm

you could get a "new" used hatch door that has the defrost in good shape and just plug it in.
not as sexy as a 12v appliance in the back, but you may thank yourself come winter.

DjEep · Post by **DjEep** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 6:43 pm

I never use the back window anyway so I would do the inverter thing, or a little sign that lights up to kindly inform people: ANTI-TAILGATE MINES ARMED

VWBusrepairman · Post by **VWBusrepairman** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 6:58 pm

My vote is for the cooler to keep the beer cold. They say the defroster will keep your hands warm when pushing, but I advise pushing on something metal and NOT on the glass. I've pushed my bus many times; some times to see if I could do it. Makes for a great work out.

bottomend · Post by **bottomend** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 7:39 pm

heres an idea for a great work-out; gain an extra hundred pounds - run around- rest- repeat.

LiveonJG · Post by **LiveonJG** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 8:12 pm

Careful about using that switch IIRC it's not a true toggle (on/off) but more of a potentiometer. Also, you don't want to run too many amps through it. Besides, the battery's already back there... and didn't you say you were going to install a second? Use that as your power source, and don't forget to install a fuse as close to the battery positive as you can.
-John

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:05 pm

LiveonJG wrote:Careful about using that switch IIRC it's not a true toggle (on/off) but more of a potentiometer. Also, you don't want to run too many amps through it. Besides, the battery's already back there... and didn't you say you were going to install a second? Use that as your power source, and don't forget to install a fuse as close to the battery positive as you can.
-John

hmm. Can you explain how it's 'more' of a potentiometer? My limited knowledge of potentiometers is that they are like dimmer switches, no? Whereas this is a simple push-pull switch. I think I'm confused what a potentiometer is then...

LiveonJG · Post by **LiveonJG** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 1:19 pm

77_Bus_Girl wrote:
LiveonJG wrote:Careful about using that switch IIRC it's not a true toggle (on/off) but more of a potentiometer. Also, you don't want to run too many amps through it. Besides, the battery's already back there... and didn't you say you were going to install a second? Use that as your power source, and don't forget to install a fuse as close to the battery positive as you can.
-John
hmm. Can you explain how it's 'more' of a potentiometer? My limited knowledge of potentiometers is that they are like dimmer switches, no? Whereas this is a simple push-pull switch. I think I'm confused what a potentiometer is then...

Like a pot, I think it has a somewhat variable output. Just don't use it as an on off switch. Better to use a true toggle and a relay if you're going to drive anything with big power needs.

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 5:31 pm

LiveonJG wrote:Like a pot, I think it has a somewhat variable output. Just don't use it as an on off switch. Better to use a true toggle and a relay if you're going to drive anything with big power needs.

really? you can adjust the rear defrost? I always thought it was on or off. (current to the grid, or no current to the grid) is there a way to adjust the output?

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 5:38 pm

Put a twelve volt receptacle back there, for your brand new 12 volt blender. MMMMM frozen Mudslides.
Haven't had a drink in a while but I remember!

Bill

LiveonJG · Post by **LiveonJG** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 6:07 pm

77_Bus_Girl wrote:
LiveonJG wrote:Like a pot, I think it has a somewhat variable output. Just don't use it as an on off switch. Better to use a true toggle and a relay if you're going to drive anything with big power needs.
really? you can adjust the rear defrost? I always thought it was on or off. (current to the grid, or no current to the grid) is there a way to adjust the output?

Not exactly... just somewhere in the purple haze of my memory I remember something to the effect that it's not a true toggle... I read it somewhere, I think. Get a dome light switch from an early bay, mount it on your dash and use it instead. That is a true toggle and it keeps the stock look of the dash switches. Sorry I don't have a more definative answer for you.
-John

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 6:14 pm

cool! thanks!

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

rear defrost - repurpose?

rear defrost - repurpose?