Bus starts, but will not run after fuel line replacement

[aopisa]

I am double posting this on The Samba as well as I am trying to find a hopefully quick solution.

Well, I had a feeling that this would happen.

After replacing the fuel lines which was not an easy task of me, I can get the bus to turn over and start, but will not run unless I have my foot heavy on the gas. As soon as I let up, it dies instantly.

Where should I start looking to see what I missed, bumped, disconnected? I had a heck of a time getting the number 1 & 2 injectors back in. I may have switched the 1 & 2 injectors as I was so exhausted I forgot to pay attention to which one was which. That shouldn't make a difference, should it?

[Amskeptic]

I am double opting this on The Samba as well as I am trying to find a hopefully quick solution.

Well, I had a feeling that this would happen.

After replacing the fuel lines which was not an easy task of me, I can get the bus to turn over and start, but will not run unless I have my foot heavy on the gas. As soon as I let up, it dies instantly.

Where should I start looking to see what I missed, bumped, disconnected? I had a heck of a time getting the number 1 & 2 injectors back in. I may have switched the 1 & 2 injectors as I was so exhausted I forgot to pay attention to which one was which. That shouldn't make a difference, should it?

Don't worry about switching injectors. Did you pinch off fuel lines and forget to remove the clamp?
Colin

[aopisa]

I am double opting this on The Samba as well as I am trying to find a hopefully quick solution.

Well, I had a feeling that this would happen.

After replacing the fuel lines which was not an easy task of me, I can get the bus to turn over and start, but will not run unless I have my foot heavy on the gas. As soon as I let up, it dies instantly.

Where should I start looking to see what I missed, bumped, disconnected? I had a heck of a time getting the number 1 & 2 injectors back in. I may have switched the 1 & 2 injectors as I was so exhausted I forgot to pay attention to which one was which. That shouldn't make a difference, should it?

Don't worry about switching injectors. Did you pinch off fuel lines and forget to remove the clamp?
Colin

That would be like me, but no. I kept an unused clamp in plain sight to remind me to remove the one I had on the line.

I finally got it running roughly enough to get around to the back. RPMs were on the verge of stalling. Timing looks advanced. I turned the air mixture screw in an attempt to just keep it going enough to work on it. About 1/2 turn clockwise smoothed it out a little and brought the RPMs up to 700. is this compensating for an unseen intake leak somewhere?

I don't want to introduce any more variables until I know how to proceed from here logically.

[aopisa]

It's a cracked S boot. I could hear once I got the engine running. Used a hose to pinpoint it on the back near the engine seal. I put a new seal in last night. When I was putting it behind the S boot, I must have moved it just enough to open a crack that was probably already forming.

Can I repair it?

[luftvagon]

Yes, with some high temp silicone, but order a new one.. These things don't last nearly as they should.

[aopisa]

Like black RTV?

[RSorak 71Westy]

exactly

[aopisa]

I reinstalled the repaired S boot. The bus started right up and did not stall. In fact it was idling really high. So there must have been a small leak there all along and I just made it a lot bigger when I moved it to install the engine seal. I think the timing and idle are way off now.

Except, the loud hissing noise is still there. It seems to be coming from the left side. It is so prevalent I cannot pinpoint it. I have not driven it yet, but noticed when I step on the brake pedal the engine slows down.

So now please what do I check and how? This is just going from one thing to another.

I think I am out of time to take this on the trip. Disappointing the kids twice this summer.

I guess Colin and I will have plenty to do in a few weeks.

EDIT- It appears that the air leak is coming from around the no. 3&4 injectors. I will try to reseat them after the engine cools down. They came out easily enough. Did I miss some kind of trick when putting them back in?

[Kubelwagen]

Brake booster line would be a good place to check. Would seem to line up with the engine changing when you press the brake pedal. You could have easily bumped/moved it when you were working on the left side. The hard plastic line is difficult to find (at least for me) so i replaced mine with copper with stiff rubber hose at each end for connection.

[SlowLane]

It appears that the air leak is coming from around the no. 3&4 injectors. I will try to reseat them after the engine cools down. They came out easily enough. Did I miss some kind of trick when putting them back in?

If you didn't install new injector seals yourself, then inspect the ones that are on there for hardness/brittleness/cracks. Inspect both the little ones that actually perform the seal, and the larger donuts that fit around the body of the injector. If the large one has shrunken or worn, then it may not provide enough force to properly seal the little one.
If you did install new seals, inspect the little ones for signs of pinching. Make sure the larger one is seated in the groove on the injector.
When installing injectors, I kinda wiggle them around to make sure the little seal is fully seated in the manifold socket before tightening down the retention nut.

[aopisa]

I did install new seals. The old seals came out with the injectors. The larger 'doughnut' does not fit tight into the bracket. I had to pry the old ones out. I was assuming that the new doughnut would expand when it has been subjected to engine heat.

Thanks, I will try to reseat everything a little more carefully.

[SlowLane]

The larger 'doughnut' does not fit tight into the bracket.

Sumpin's wrong there. The big doughnut should be a fairly tight squeeze into the bracket. Moderate to strong finger pressure (depending on the strength of the fingers). Should not be at all sloppy once in.

[aopisa]

The larger 'doughnut' does not fit tight into the bracket.

Sumpin's wrong there. The big doughnut should be a fairly tight squeeze into the bracket. Moderate to strong finger pressure (depending on the strength of the fingers). Should not be at all sloppy once in.

Well not sloppy, but not as tight as the old ones. I did line everything up and carefully reseated the injectors. All good there at least. I still here a moderate hissing and it still seems like left side, but it might be normal engine hiss now.

I retimed again and all seems to be OK. I have not driven it again though.

The only other thing is to find out now is if it is running rich or lean. In my desperate attempt to keep it from stalling after the fuel hose replacement/S boot issue, I sort of cranked on the mixture screw. I know I went one turn clockwise, but there may have been another time I messed with it. So now I am second guessing myself.

[56ovalbug]

The mixture screw on the AFM is for idle only. Once you start driving that screw has no effect on whether the engine runs rich or not - The way the AFM is set up does that.

[aopisa]

Thanks. I decided to re-read Colin's AFM article and realized that the mixture screw is just a bypass at idle. I am carefully working my way through the procedure to determine the state at which the engine is running. So far it appears to be pretty much the way Colin and I adjusted it 2 years ago and we rechecked it again last year.