New engine build

[Bleyseng]

I fired up a Raby Camper Special kit yesterday with 600 miles total on it and performed an oil change. . . . it is worth repeating, please clean every part immaculate before it goes into the engine. The strainer plate had abrasive dirt sitting in it. I run most every part through the kitchen sink with lots o' dish soap. You end up with Palmolive hands and an engine that smells lemon fresh.
Colin

How did it run?

[Amskeptic]

I fired up a Raby Camper Special kit yesterday with 600 miles total on it and performed an oil change. . . . it is worth repeating, please clean every part immaculate before it goes into the engine. The strainer plate had abrasive dirt sitting in it. I run most every part through the kitchen sink with lots o' dish soap. You end up with Palmolive hands and an engine that smells lemon fresh.
Colin

How did it run?

There were tuning issues (big honkin' Kadrons that were running a bit rich, a timing mark on the pulley that had no bearing on the actual notch, and a distributor with a loose advance can, incorrect signal from the carbs, and a dual exhaust from Empi that made it run a bit rough and restless, looked like a pesky leak at the oil pump and a couple at the pushrod tubes, and there was some silicone sealant used in baaaad places) but the lower end seemed pretty good. It was built by people I do not know personally so I cannot vouch for the results as representative of what you could do with a Raby kit. Intrinsic engine balance seemed pretty good, compression was 130/110/135/125. . . I brought the timing back from the brink which made it a little weaker, but in a good way.
Colin

[satchmo]

As we wait for Jasan's (Westy78) Camper Special experience, I have a few other questions.

1) Please explain what can be expected by changing cams to something other than stock (and am I right in assuming that the stock cam was the same in all models, 1700cc through 2000cc, or did it change with FI or hydro lifters)? I really didn't understand much of what Amskeptic said on cams ("Less overlap on stock cams is minimal.."). Are changes in cams only realized when there are also changes in induction (bigger carbs), valve size increases, and exhaust? Like, if I put in that great 9550 cam and had stock valves or exhaust, would I be wasting my money? Or worse, doing damage?

2) What exactly is the objection to the stock exhaust? Too much back pressure, or not enough? I have an old one laying around that I may just cut up and take a few pictures. Would anyone find that helpful? Or maybe you all already know your way around inside a stock muffler?

3) Is the stock oil pump wimpy? Or does it just seem that way because we are driving old engines with clearances at the edge of acceptability?

4) Is counterbalancing the crank worth the cost? No one has said anything about this. Will it make things run smoother or last longer? Or is this just a thing for people who like to run their engines at 5000rpm?

I have a 1700 CB case that I plan to clean up and plug all the oil galleries to make it a little more bullet proof. I have a source for a 2L crank and rods, plus some new 94mm Mahle P/C. Plan on using some good opened up 1700cc heads with new seats and larger valves. Cam is still a question, as is the carb choice (I like stock, but could be convinced to go with 35mm dual Solexes). I'm looking for reliability foremost; power is a secondary consideration.

I'm interested in hearing your opinions. Thanks. And I am eagerly awaiting Jasan's progress on his engine. Send pictures.

Tim

[Bleyseng]

There were about 10 VW cams all pretty much the same except for the 1800 Euro914 cam for dual 40 carbs.
hydro cams are different do to the nature of the lifters.

The 9550 cam will liven up the motor with better breathing and better cooling due to its profile. It likes the 42x36 valves so it can do its thing, intake better and exhaust better running the heads cooler. It doesn't like the later style stock exhaust due to its crappy design- J tubes into a single pipe plus all the muffler backpressure.
A 9550 with stock 37x33 valves is a waste of time IMHO

CW cranks are a waste in a type 4 as the stock crank is plenty strong so you are just adding weight.
Balancing is what makes a engine smooth
stock oil pumps are fine if you have a good one that isn't toast.

Dual Webbers 40's or Dells!!

[Westy78]

Hey Geoff, are you the one with the T-bird extractor on your engine? I'm trying to find a vendor who still carries them if I don't end up going with Jakes new bus extractor.

[Westy78]

Finally got started on the engine build today after moving all of the parts and bench into my spare bedroom. To much humidity out in the uninsulated shed/shop. Rust, bad for new engine parts. With plywood and plastic on the floor it should make for a nice cozy assembly.





Started building the crank with nice clean/oiled parts.....





but ran into a problem with the brass distributor drive gear.....



The timing gear slipped on like butta with no need for the brass drift and hammer but when it came time to slip on the dizzy gear I didn't get it lined up with the index key and it cooled before I could move it and drift it home. Quickly got the torch fired up and the gear off but munged it up in the process. Glad brass is softer than the crank. So, it's off to the local import parts house tomorrow for a new gear and second go around with the crank. Live and learn.

[Amskeptic]

The timing gear slipped on like butta with no need for the brass drift and hammer but when it came time to slip on the dizzy gear I didn't get it lined up with the index key and it cooled before I could move it and drift it home. Quickly got the torch fired up and the gear off but munged it up in the process. Live and learn.

Welcome to the wonderful world of expansion/contraction coefficients.
When I was at that step, I had kept the the crankshaft in the freezer all night and boiled my gears on the stove. Mr. Idiot here did not think that the crankshaft would turn into a Steam Off The Stove Dehumidifier With A Coating Of Ice by the time I ran over with the hot gears. I placed both gears on the crank with the spacer and all and gave them two clinks down with my driving socket when it all started to seize up. Hammered them home with a ball peen and spent a nice while file-dressing the brass teeth where I had punched them a little hard. Live and learn. . . you bet.
Colin

[Randy in Maine]

Not to sidetrack this thread too much but 1) what size of brass drift is handy to have and 2) where do you find one?

[Amskeptic]

Not to sidetrack this thread too much but 1) what size of brass drift is handy to have and 2) where do you find one?

I did not use a brass drift. I don't even recommend a brass drift. I really don't recommend going monkey with a socket and hammer. The gear is too soft. Make it hot and the crank cool and place on end of crank with no drama.
Colin

[Westy78]

Not to sidetrack this thread too much but 1) what size of brass drift is handy to have and 2) where do you find one?

I did not use a brass drift. I don't even recommend a brass drift. I really don't recommend going monkey with a socket and hammer. The gear is too soft. Make it hot and the crank cool and place on end of crank with no drama.
Colin

Right, that was my intention with both gears. I guess the brass cools much faster or has less thermal expansion or both. It came off the same hot plate right next to the timing gear that just fell into place. When I said drift I actually meant to say brass punch just to tap it into place, gently, if needed. That brass gear is really soft.

[Randy in Maine]

I was also thinking of what to use on the wrist pins (to get them out of this case I have).

I have a good assortment of dowels. One of those be better?

[Westy78]

I was also thinking of what to use on the wrist pins (to get them out of this case I have).

I have a good assortment of dowels. One of those be better?

Don't know on that one. I'm not doing any tear down but it would be good to know in the future. Seems like Jake went over that in the video but I can't remember for sure. Colin?

[chitwnvw]

A brass punch is good for the wrist pins, here the softness is your friend. Harborfreight has some good assortment sets for cheap:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=41976
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=37038

[Amskeptic]

I was also thinking of what to use on the wrist pins (to get them out of this case I have).

I have a good assortment of dowels. One of those be better?

I have a special 3/8' drive 3/8"socket for the wrist pins. It is necked at the end which allows a beautifully positive engagement with the inner surface of the wrist pin. No nicks on the upper end bushing or piston allowed! The extension + socket gives me just the right amount flexibility to allow me to come at it from a slight miss-the-cooler-flange angle when I am tearing down the engine in the car.
Colin
(should this thread visit the engine forum?)

[Westy78]

(should this thread visit the engine forum?)

Sure. Move at will.