Oil Bath Filter.
- Gypsie
- rusty aircooled mekanich
- Location: Treadin' Lightly under the Clear Blue!
- Status: Offline
Oil Bath Filter.
Question about the oil bath air cleaner.
I recently paid some much needed attention to the bug (72 super beetle).
When I removed the oil bath, I found a mocha colored sludge with quite a bit of water in the mix (about 1/4 to 1/3 water).
The breather slats for the engine bay are directly above the intake horn.
When I am driving around I must be sucking rain drops into the oil. In these parts that is a big part of the year.
Q1- Should the intake horn be positioned under the lip of the hatch opening and therefore out of direct rain fall, instead of under the openings?
Q2- When I fill the oil reservoir the fill line is where exactly. Some describe 'to the baffle' some say 'to the arrow'. Not much difference but one way covers the entire baffle and the other seems too low to have an impact other than a place for dust to settle.
Q3- Should this oil settle and cover the openings in the bottom of the 'element' cage when the motor is not running? When it is running?
By the way, Bookwus, that stat is not functioning. I now have two, so I may try some scientific experimentin' to see If there is any way to get it workin'.
I recently paid some much needed attention to the bug (72 super beetle).
When I removed the oil bath, I found a mocha colored sludge with quite a bit of water in the mix (about 1/4 to 1/3 water).
The breather slats for the engine bay are directly above the intake horn.
When I am driving around I must be sucking rain drops into the oil. In these parts that is a big part of the year.
Q1- Should the intake horn be positioned under the lip of the hatch opening and therefore out of direct rain fall, instead of under the openings?
Q2- When I fill the oil reservoir the fill line is where exactly. Some describe 'to the baffle' some say 'to the arrow'. Not much difference but one way covers the entire baffle and the other seems too low to have an impact other than a place for dust to settle.
Q3- Should this oil settle and cover the openings in the bottom of the 'element' cage when the motor is not running? When it is running?
By the way, Bookwus, that stat is not functioning. I now have two, so I may try some scientific experimentin' to see If there is any way to get it workin'.
So it all started when I wanted to get better gas mileage....
- Gypsie
- rusty aircooled mekanich
- Location: Treadin' Lightly under the Clear Blue!
- Status: Offline
I can imagine condensed water sliding back down the element into the bath, but wonder if I have something set up improperly. The sludge I noticed has formed since March and seems to be excessive.
Maybe I just need to plan on changing the oil there every couple months in this climate. Another reason to mod to a paper filter. (Shhh, don't tell colin or hammie...)
I was thinking that the area might get pretty warm considering that the preheater hose is always open (stat does not work). Maybe not warm enough to cause the water to evaoprate out of the oil.
Also thinking that that is part of the design element (where the water settles to the bottom otf the oil and out of the combustion chambers.)
Maybe I just need to plan on changing the oil there every couple months in this climate. Another reason to mod to a paper filter. (Shhh, don't tell colin or hammie...)
I was thinking that the area might get pretty warm considering that the preheater hose is always open (stat does not work). Maybe not warm enough to cause the water to evaoprate out of the oil.
Also thinking that that is part of the design element (where the water settles to the bottom otf the oil and out of the combustion chambers.)
So it all started when I wanted to get better gas mileage....
- RSorak 71Westy
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Memphis, TN
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Q1 You certainly do NOT want it rainling into the air intake....I vote move it.
q2 The oil needs to be high enough so that the air has to go thru the filter element and can't go around it.
q3 The oil level in the filter doesn't change based upon weather the engine is running or not.
q2 The oil needs to be high enough so that the air has to go thru the filter element and can't go around it.
q3 The oil level in the filter doesn't change based upon weather the engine is running or not.
Take care,
Rick
Stock 1600 w/dual Solex 34's and header. mildly ported heads and EMPI elephant's feet. SVDA W/pertronix. 73 Thing has been sold. BTW I am a pro wrench have been fixing cars for living for over 30 yrs.
Rick
Stock 1600 w/dual Solex 34's and header. mildly ported heads and EMPI elephant's feet. SVDA W/pertronix. 73 Thing has been sold. BTW I am a pro wrench have been fixing cars for living for over 30 yrs.
- Bookwus
- IAC Addict!
- Location: City of Roses
- Status: Offline
Hiya Stephan,
Given that you have two flaps in that airhorn and the plastic clips that hold those flaps are not watertight; and that there is a lip at the airhorn bowl junction, I'm not thinking that intaking much water through the airhorn should be a big problem. Still, the airhorn should be oriented directly to the right as you look at the engine. That would, more or less, put it under the joint between rear decklid and body and away from the decklid vents.
Is it possible that moisture might be entering the air filter through some other means? Hosing perhaps?
I sold another air filter thermostat up at Maupin to Bob. Dunno if that one was good, but I did mention to Bob that you and I had discussed the possibility of renewing these things via new wax. You might want to contact him about that. Maybe you two could start up a paraffin rersearch institute.
Given that you have two flaps in that airhorn and the plastic clips that hold those flaps are not watertight; and that there is a lip at the airhorn bowl junction, I'm not thinking that intaking much water through the airhorn should be a big problem. Still, the airhorn should be oriented directly to the right as you look at the engine. That would, more or less, put it under the joint between rear decklid and body and away from the decklid vents.
Is it possible that moisture might be entering the air filter through some other means? Hosing perhaps?
I sold another air filter thermostat up at Maupin to Bob. Dunno if that one was good, but I did mention to Bob that you and I had discussed the possibility of renewing these things via new wax. You might want to contact him about that. Maybe you two could start up a paraffin rersearch institute.
I have cancer.
It does not have me.
It does not have me.
- Gypsie
- rusty aircooled mekanich
- Location: Treadin' Lightly under the Clear Blue!
- Status: Offline
Thanks folk. stuff to chew on.
I will track down the ends of the two hoses connected. Could be that since the evaporator tube was disconnected when I got it is not connected tightly on the other end or the first usage sucked up a mess of stored h2o?...
This is the old horn (replaced but in the same location). Note all the water.
I will also look close at the decklid seal. Maybe water is getting ins through a gap? though the vents are a pretty big opening in themselves.
They make rain louvre type clip on things. Any thoughts?
Great question.Bookwus wrote: Is it possible that moisture might be entering the air filter through some other means? Hosing perhaps?
I will track down the ends of the two hoses connected. Could be that since the evaporator tube was disconnected when I got it is not connected tightly on the other end or the first usage sucked up a mess of stored h2o?...
This is the old horn (replaced but in the same location). Note all the water.
I will also look close at the decklid seal. Maybe water is getting ins through a gap? though the vents are a pretty big opening in themselves.
They make rain louvre type clip on things. Any thoughts?
So it all started when I wanted to get better gas mileage....
- Bookwus
- IAC Addict!
- Location: City of Roses
- Status: Offline
Hiya S,
From 70 through 71 VW installed an internal rain shield on the decklid. This contraption allowed fresh air to enter the engine compartment, but intercepted the water and routed it down to the bottom of the decklid where a series of holes allowed it to drain.
Picture..............
If you're interested these things still do show up at VW shows, swaps and boneyards. Hmmmmmm.......come to think of it.......I believe I saw one of these out at Trafton's recently.
From 70 through 71 VW installed an internal rain shield on the decklid. This contraption allowed fresh air to enter the engine compartment, but intercepted the water and routed it down to the bottom of the decklid where a series of holes allowed it to drain.
Picture..............
If you're interested these things still do show up at VW shows, swaps and boneyards. Hmmmmmm.......come to think of it.......I believe I saw one of these out at Trafton's recently.
I have cancer.
It does not have me.
It does not have me.
- Gypsie
- rusty aircooled mekanich
- Location: Treadin' Lightly under the Clear Blue!
- Status: Offline
Drool....
Yes I am interested. If you see one at Mr Trafton's perhaps you could mention that I would like to get it let me know.
So this was not on the '72?
I looked again and it does not appear to be possible to get the horn out from under the vents.
Anyone ever used one of these?:
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw?frame=1.4608
Yes I am interested. If you see one at Mr Trafton's perhaps you could mention that I would like to get it let me know.
So this was not on the '72?
I looked again and it does not appear to be possible to get the horn out from under the vents.
Anyone ever used one of these?:
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw?frame=1.4608
So it all started when I wanted to get better gas mileage....
- spiffy
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Walla Walla, WA
- Status: Offline
- werksberg
- Old School!
- Location: The OC
- Status: Offline
The OEM rain tray is best or I also make these ABS plastic .060" Bug Deck lid liners too:
For convertibles, before installing them use a hole saw and drill some holes in the deck lid liner down by the lower catch for water to run off but fresh air still comes in.
I was trying to make them out of Alum but the price of colored coated alum these days and Bug owners will not pay for them at that cost......
Gypsie, that outer ABS cover is an Empi part and might be cheaper at the larger VW shops. Here in the OC we don't see any of them on Bugs....but we hardly see and rain. Please send all the rain clouds our way, OK?
JM
For convertibles, before installing them use a hole saw and drill some holes in the deck lid liner down by the lower catch for water to run off but fresh air still comes in.
I was trying to make them out of Alum but the price of colored coated alum these days and Bug owners will not pay for them at that cost......
Gypsie, that outer ABS cover is an Empi part and might be cheaper at the larger VW shops. Here in the OC we don't see any of them on Bugs....but we hardly see and rain. Please send all the rain clouds our way, OK?
JM
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