Itinerant Air-Cooled

Gasp. Alright, fighting a slight cold and using some sick-time, so had a chilly window to put things back together. New fuel line all over, new tank outlet and nut, new tank screen, checked the little conical screen in the pump, all clean clean clean.

Cheryle's going to take her for a little test spin before I head out tomorrow for the hour-long drive into town, screw driver at hand to rap a tap tap the carb (thanks Colin) should it come to that.

Fuel tank resto looks daunting, I knew it would. Ain't happening real soon. Sounds like a summer job for the better warmer temperatures for drying and curing any sealer applied. Until then, work off the top of the tank and keep it full and drive it.

So what's a low cost equivilant to POR 15's "Marine Clean"? The phosphourous acid wash I found is the same as their "Metal Ready", pretty sure.


Thanks for all the input and support.
neal

Hiya Neal,

ruckman101 wrote:...........So what's a low cost equivilant to POR 15's "Marine Clean"?

Back to Costco for you! Head on back to the tools and oil section and look for Kafko's Oil Eater. Of course, Costco sells this stuff by the gallon. About $9.00. But you do get a spray bottle and you can use the rest of the gallon for all kinds of parts cleaning.

Take out the fuel sender and inspect the tank with a flash light. No smoking! you'll be able to see how bad it is. You might be able to remove some of the crud that way. I myself have never found the need to do anything other than clean a tank. others will disagree. Don't try to use a vacuum to suck out any crap! BOOM DE BOOM BOOM BOOM. Carry extra fuel filters.

Bill

Drove Gretchen into town this morning from Amboy. She's running like ass. Back to the carb I guess, maybe getting more fuel now. Tuesday, Monday, one of them, compression test, recheck timing etc, and adjust the carb. The old plugs were black and oily. A sign of too much fuel, yes? Expecting the same look on the new plugs. We will see.


neal

Running too rich, timing off, or bad rings. Crap man always somethin'.

Check yer float, I'm serious.

Even if I am wrong you can clean/test the needle valve and rule out two possibilities.

Arrrggghhh,

Well, I was surprised to find my carb not neccessarily out of whack. I turned in the fuel screw to bottom, expecting to go 4, 5 or more turns, and was surprised to find it hit bottom right at 2.5, which is where it supposedly wants to be.

It did help quite a bit, though, smoothing things out, less pops and bogs, idles well, but still bogging out at the bottom of second and especially third if pushing it a bit hard. Yet the first mileage check, 19 mpg!!! It was getting 22.

So I checked the compression. Not a leak-down or anything, just pull the plug (new plugs already black), put in the gauge and spun the engine until it quit climbing. The exact figures are written down in the glove box, so I have to go by memory here. #1 was 85, #2 was 65, #3 was 92, and #4 was 74 or so.

I wasn't thrilled. Could this be why my mileage is so bad and the car seemingly a bit underpowered? At what point should I consider a rebuild?


thanks,
neal

Was the test done on a warmed up engine?

Cold engine.


neal

I'm afraid you've driven the tarot card with the updside down Beetle surrounded by laden flystrips.
Gypsy: "I see pistons and torque wrenches in your future"
Sorry man but at least you gots the skillz and peeps with Helping Hands myself inkluded. And what better season??? (well, after the sky-icebergs go away)

Before you go tearing into it, readjust valves, and be real fussy about getting it right. Warm up the engine then remove all the spark plugs. Crank engine with the throttle wide open. Crank several revolutions for each cylinder. Record your readings. Put about a tablespoon of motor oil in each cylinder and retest. If compression goes up with the oil, it's rings if not, it's heads. You need a fully charged strong battery to spin the engine fast enough. A weak battery will give low readings. There is way to cheat for a leakdown test. Just figure a way to apply compressed air to each cylinder. I just use my compression tester hose and an air gun with the rubber tip pushed against the end of the hose. Bring each cylinder to TDC apply air and have a helper listen to where the air escapes. If you hear it in the intake thru the carb, it's an intake valve for that cylinder. If you hear it in the exhaust it's exhaust valve for that cylinder. If you hear it through the oil fill, it's rings on that cylinder. Or you may just hear air escaping on the side you're testing, that would be a leaking cylinder to head seal.

Bill

^^^^What Bill said. That really works.^^^^
If you can hook up to your compression tester hose so you have hands free, you can listen yourself.


Rob

Hopefully I can get to rechecking the compression tomorrow.


neal